Your insight is valuable. Please refer to the posts above for clarification on what's going on. You are the first person to mention anything about a camshaft sensor and honest it's not relevant to whats going on with my truck at the moment. In part because the sensor was never unplugged or in any way damaged during the head gasket job. We are discussing the possibility of a faulty cps (crankshaft position sensor) or the wire for said sensor.

When mention rpms we are not talking about the tachometer. Rather a sensor that is suppose to monitor the rotation of interior engine components and send a signal to the main computer which in turn sends a signal to the coils and the injectors. The engine wont start unless the sensor sends the signal to the computer. I'm getting no signal.

Now I already pulled the plenum and inspected the wire harnesses on the topside. None of the wires appear to be pinched or damaged. So I wrapped up the harnesses with new electrical tape then used zip ties to secured them to the fuel rail where they are suppose to be. Obviously the factory plastic clips that hold the harness to the rail disintegrated.

I did however find something interesting on the passenger side. A section of wiring harness makes it's way up from below the engine and wraps around the back side of the alternator. I found that one of the main battery cables that bolts onto the back of the alternator was coming into contact with said section of wiring harness. And while I was trying to relocate the harness in a fashion so it's not coming into contact with the alternator I found 2 wires that have been stripped of insulation and taped together with blue tape. This does not look like factory practice. I'm not sure what they 2 wires are for. I know that one of the previous owners installed aftermarket stereo system as well as a microphone and possibly a security system. Theres an extra speak horn under the hood and blue while inside the truck below the carpets. Either way these 2 wires with no insulation were among the wires being indirect contact with the battery cables.

Not sure of I should keep them together and just add heat shrink, or separate then add heat shrink or leave them be.

 

I replaced the cps afew months ago and it's still under warranty so I'm picking up a replacement today and will install while putting everything back together.

 

So with everything reassembled and having verified that the starter and the fuel pump and all the fuses were in good order I still could not get the truck to start. The solution was indeed a new crankshaft position sensor. Despite the fact that I installed a new sensor afew months ago. Luckily it was still under warranty so I pulled the sensor and got a new one from the local parts store. With the sensor replaced the truck started right up and has been running fine ever since. Im still tracing down a sai relevant trouble code that I've had for awhile now. Gotta inspect the entire system but I suspect one of the hoses that feeds around the back of the engine from the passenger side across to the driver side is the culprit.

Now it's time to sort out the transmission and transfer case. Last week the ZF oil pump seal (RTC5102) failed resulting in all the transmission fluid pouring out in the bell housing. I removed the inspection hole and more fluid poured right out. The transmission is still functional but the truck cannot be operated until I address the leak. My understanding is that the transmission should be pulled I order to replace the seal and that while doing so ots recommended that the torque converter also be serviced. So I'm debating on getting my transmission rebuilt or purchasing a Ashcroft transmission from the UK which comes complete with a new torque converter. I've already been in contact with Ashcroft who quoted me $1,925 for the transmission shipped to me. No core. I have also been in contact with a local transmission shop who themselves seem to be rather bias. I spoke to them about rebuilding my transmission and the guy informed me that the ZF transmission in these trucks is notorious for problems yadda yadda yada. I asked him for a ball park quote for the rebuild and he refused firing that he needs to tear the unit apart before he can give me any kind of an idea how much it would cost. I've never had any issues with the ZF transmissions in either my D1 or neither of my D2's and I've never heard of anyone else having issues. In fact the transmission in my truck is 15 years old with 230,000 on it and despite going through hell and back the old girl is still pulling what she can. I've been very impressed.

 

Interesting everything I have read says the the ZF transmissions are solid units and I read a lot before purchase.

 

That guy bad talking ZF transmissions = sounds clueless to me! The HP22/HP24 is a very robust transmission. You can get a perfectly good used replacement for like $400.00 shipped. The only time they really go out = front drive shaft lets go & punches a hole into the HP22/HP24, or if no one ever does a fluid/filter change. Besides that they will last pretty much forever. I'd honestly just grab a good 250.00-400.00 used unit with a warranty and call it a day.

 

When I first purchased this white 2004 Discovery 2 it had around 220,000 on the odometer. Not long after swapping the bulk of parts over from my former grey D2 I took a 2 hour trip to see some friends. About 10 minutes before getting off the highway I suddenly and abruptly noticed a burning smell followed by smoke rising up from the hood. Next I noticed that my truck was slowing down despite my foot applying consistent pressure to the accelerator. My first thought was the engine was overheating. I panicked. Took the first exit I could and limped around a roundabout before being able to find a pull off where I could park and investigate. Turned our that one of the transmission cooler lines up near the radiator disconnected and thus all the tranny fluid gushed out. I assumed something must have broke but on closer inspection nothing was actually broken. It appears that the line was disconnected by the previous owner for whatever reason and when they reconnected it they did not secure it properly. So I was a little relieved but unfortunately i was also low on money. So I put in 2 quarts of Castrol transmission fluid, knowing very well that was not enough. Tried my hand at reconnecting the transmission cooler line and later that night I jumped back on the highway for the 2 hour trip home. About 100 miles. About a half an hour into my journey some familiar symptoms reaccured and this time the check engine light was flashing. Being dark outside and far from anyone I knew I again panicked. Got off the next exit and pulled over and let the truck cool down. Popped the hood and found that the same cooler line had disconnected again. That line is a tricky little bastard to connect. But I figured it out and this time made dam sure it was on secure. Unfortunately I had no more transmission fluid and no money. So I had no choice but to try and limp home. Got back on the highway and was able to maintain a speed of around 45-50mph for the duration of the trip home. Every moment that went by I was certain that the transmission had had it and would explode or something. Time dragged. But eventually I actually made it home safely. That old girl ACTUALLY got me home with hardly any fluid left in her! She would NOT DIE!. The next day I was able to get some more tranny fluid and filled the transmission up full. Ran it for afew days and noticed the truck was struggling to pick up speed. So I bought a new filter and did a manual flush of the system. Afterwards everything was back to normal. I noted however that the fluid I had previously put in prior to replacing the filter was black. So a month later I went back and changed the filter again and changed out the fluid once more (3rd fluid change). This time the fluid was dark red but not black. From there everything was normal. Then earlier this year I went ahead and changed the fluid again for a fourth time and was happy to see the fluid that came out was still a clear light red. I've had no issues since. 230,000 and several months later and that transmission is still going. The seal may have failed but she's still got life left.

So last week when the seal failed I was at work luckily but I filled it back up with more fluid and was able to make it home to where I park. I've left the truck parked since until I get the transmission figured out. Needless to say I'm very impressed and I don't want to get rid of the unit. But I also dont want to put in a used unit. I plan on keeping this Discovery until I die so might as well throw in a rebuilt unit of possible.

 

If you are debating on an Ashcroft transmission = you are just tossing $$$$ to the wind IMHO. There is absolutely nothing wrong with a good stock used HP24 with a warranty. You yourself speak on how tough they are. If money is no object by all means get your unit rebuilt, but the rebuild is only as good as the tech rebuilding it! I'd personally get a good used replacement drop it in, and keep your old trusty unit as a backup, but that's me.

 

I totally get what your saying man. But my needs are unique. Remember that my girl and I have turned this vehicle into our home in wheels. A campervan so to speak. We live year round in my Discovery 2. We use it and depend on it far more then the average person does with their vehicles. It's our daily driver. Our joy ride tourer. Our storage. Our pantry. Our bathroom. Our privacy but most of all it's our home. What I'm looking for is peak performance and capability. Smooth gear changes, ability to pass motorists on the highway and drive up steep hills but most of all the ability to tow a brake trailer weighing in at as much as 7,500lbs. Used transmissions from the junkyard are hit or miss like anything else because you don't know how the owners of past treated it or how long it was sitting outside. Now everyone talks highly of Ashcroft and honestly I never really paid much attention until now. A fully remanufactured transmission looks fantastic and has all new seals along with new torque converter etc. Add in the warranty and peace of mind. You cant beat that and for $1,950 shipped from the UK that is a bargain.

 

Pending updates with regards to the transmission. Ashcroft needs me to verify the serial number on my transmission. I wonder if all transmissions installed in 2004 D2's have the same serial number? I have a spare tranny in storage for my old 04 D2. Not sure if I could just give them the serial number from that and be set, or maybe each unit has it's own unique code.

In the mean time for is an update on the wheels situation. I've sourced 4 new RRC114560MUW wheels and sent them out to be sand blasted, zinc primed and powder coated white. This time I went to a different shop as I was not impressed with the work performed by the first shop I went to for my Terrafirma steel wheels. I still need to hunt down one more RRC114560MUW wheel to make a complete set but at least I can get these wheels installed and be safe again.

I'm very happy with how the wheels came out and I plan on having my mantec raised air intake and sd roof rack done by the same shop in the near future. This shop was very flexible and gave me a discounted price in exchange for the 5 old damaged Terrafirma steel wheels. So with the discount I'm paying $450 for 5 wheels sand blasted, zinc primed and powder coated white. Not bad at all. The first shop I went to quoted me $464 but ended up charging me $600.

 

The point of a serial number is that each one is unique.
I can't believe you spent a grand on powdercoating your wheels so far. Given your history with wheel damage I don't think PC was a wise decision. Once you get a scratch in the PC it won't be long before the rest starts peeling off. I think a nice rattle can wheel paint would look good and be easy to touch up.