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Yeah, pretty clean install. We add a similar system to our Cat engines in our mid-duty applications.
Is this set up pretty common over there?
Brian.
Some of the UK Land Rover owners add the “ProVent” oil catch container to their older 200 & 300 diesel TDi engines. I haven’t seen anyone else add an oil catch can to the Thor V8 engine.
In the past, I’ve added oil catch cans on my Audi, VW and BMW engines with great results.
I’ve always wanted to do this to cut down on the amount of oil vapor going back into the intake.
I had made a prototype with a Gatorade bottle and a filter I had left over. Shown below,also in placement as well. I swung the passenger side hose into a hole through the side of the bottle, and extended the driver side valve cover hose into the bottle as well. The intake plenum hose connections can now be blocked off with caps. The prototype isn’t pretty but it did work, I then picked up a “nicer” looking catch can for cheap on the web. However the smalller filter element was creating lots more vapor as opposed to the prototype. I simply swapped over filter media’s. Prototype subject “a” Purchased this through the Internet.
Most of the cheaper closed loop (not vented with a filter) oil catch containers need to be modded to separate the incoming oil vapor from the outgoing cleaned air. The more expensive oil catch containers already have a separation baffle to do this.
On my NRG container I had to add an internal barb fitting, a piece of 4"L x 1/2" ID hose for the inside, a scouring pad and a zip tie to create that separation. All together the cost was $38 which included the used NRG catch container off of eBay for $33.
I'll tear it down and take pictures of the innards once it starts collecting more oil.
Old pics...
My cruise control hasn’t worked in 2 years since I added all LEDs to my brake lights. I finally fixed my cruise control problem today with a resistor.
Before I soldered in the resistor, my Nanocom showed the Hella CC unit senses the brake light is “ON” when driving over 28MPH. Since it shows as “ON” it’ll never enable the Cruise Control because it senses the brake is constantly on due to the brake light LEDs being installed.
I cut and soldered in a 50 Watt/6 Ohm resistor in parallel to the left rear brake light’s green/purple wire and the black ground wire.
I added adhesive lined 3:1 heat shrink tubing over the solder connections to protect the wires from shorting against the frame.
I then mounted the 50 Watt/6 Ohm resistor to metal to allow for heat transfer for the resistor to cool off.
A week after I finally fixed my cruise control and got it working, I found the cruise control wandered about +/-5MPH at the set speed on a straight away which was a bit scary.
I verified with the Nanocom that I indeed had "Discovery II 4.0" selected for the Hella CC unit's Vehicle Tune section.
Since the 4.0 selection was correct, the only things left to check were the V8 air lines for cracks and the throttle cable linkage. The air lines looked good so I adjusted the throttle cable/cruise control cables with a 13mm open end spanner wrench. I adjusted each one to sit about 2mm away from the plate which is a tighter measurement than the RAVE manual actually states.
Now I have excellent throttle response on the V8 and the cruise control doesn't surge.
I can honestly say since I'm using the cruise control now, I've gotten better gas mileage. Usually at half a tank I had already covered about 150 miles. Now I'm at 198 miles at half a tank!
Yep the D2 cruise control was known to surge and at the time LR was adjusting it per their setup. However adjusting the cables to almost be touching the throttle plate greatly improved the surge issue. It also fixed what a lot of D2's I drive feel like = HORRIBLE throttle response and pedal feel. I've been adjusting them to 1-2MM for years now and zero issues after that.
07-10-2019, 07:17 AM
