When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
about how much material was removed when once the reaming was completed? Only ask bc if it's substantial its a lot harder to fix a broken knuckle/hub on the trail than a bent tie rod. I've seen this done a few times now and has my attention as my disco weighs an unholy amount and my classic is on 35s and like 5-6" of lift so beefing up some steering is never a bad idea.
not too much material had to be reamed for the 1 ton tre. Still plenty of material on the knuckle. I got the idea from a friend in the NorCal rover club with a D2 that visits the rubicon on a yearly basis as well as the tougher trails in NorCal. He has not had issues with the knuckle at all as well as other guys in the club who’ve done the upgrade.
another approach you could do if you don’t want to ream the knuckle is figure out the pitch of the HD tre sold by gwen Lewis and have wide open designs tap the tie rod for those HD tre which will work with the existing hole in the knuckle.
the 7075 tie rod in combination with the HD tre from gl could be a nice setup especially if you don’t rock crawl a lot
On my trip to Deer Valley last week ambient temps were in the 85-90 def F range. With the AC on I could not drive faster than 65 mph otherwise the water temps on the UG would go above 205 deg F. My truck has a new oem water pump, new oem fan and fan clutch, new Nissen radiator, and 180 deg inline T stat which were installed when the new engine went in the truck.
also, after the trail run my gas gauge stopped working. It was stuck at 3/4 tank and a code popped up due to fuel sender error.
to help with the d2 cooling, I picked up a flowkooler water pump, duralast fan clutch (922626) and Dorman fan (620-602). the fan blades need to be trimmed about 0.5 inch to clear the fan shroud. I also got a new Bosch fuel pump assembly to fix the fuel gauge issue.
after the cooling mods, I was seeing 194 deg F at 80 mph in 100 deg F ambient temps and 187 deg F temp at 65 mph with AC on full blast. Keep in mind my truck is regeared with 4.37, 35s, front and rear metal bumpers, rack, and armor so project $$$ pit is a bit heavy.
My truck came with TF +2 in shocks and I didn't think they rode that bad. The shocks were definitely firm, but not horrible. However, I am used to driving Porsche track cars and modified Porsche street cars with aggressive suspension setups, so my perception may be a bit skewed.
The Bilstein 7100 shocks were the icing on the cake. The ride is much more plush now and soaks up the bumps much better than the TF shocks. The TF shocks seemed to just skip over bumps likely due to the compression settings. The Bilstein shocks soak up road imperfections enough for my wife to comment how much more pleasant the truck is to ride in now. I call that a win. The valving on the Bilsteins are 400/100 front and 420/120 rear which are the middle of the road valving setting for the Bilsteins.
Hello
I too want to switch to the Bilstein 7100 Shocks. How do I know which length to buy for a 3" lift?
Best bet is to measure the distances with the suspension cycled at full droop and full compression of the springs. That said 12" short body is about as much travel as the radius arms will allow before they start binding up at the frame..
Best bet is to measure the distances with the suspension cycled at full droop and full compression of the springs. That said 12" short body is about as much travel as the radius arms will allow before they start binding up at the frame..
You'll have to measure to be sure. A 10" is much more standard for a 3" lift. It's extremely simple and lots of info out there on how to measure for them. You don't want to be wrong and end up loosing usable travel even though you have a longer traveling shock..
Brought the disco out to the MET this past weekend and it was going great until it wasn’t. After yanking a friend who was stuck in the snow, another friend started to flag me down to turn off the disco as fluid was spraying from the front end. I was expecting it to be coolant, but turned out to be transmission fluid.
the hydraulic hose line that feeds the transmission cooler ruptured near the metal crimp at the cooler side. I ended up cutting a spare radiator hose to size and wrapped it around the split in the hose and clamped it down with a few hose clamps I had on hand. The band aid fix got me off the trail as I was able to coast most of the way down the trail which kept the line pressure low.
The first incline I reached on the road which required throttle to make it up the road resulted in the trail fix failing and the disco stranded on the side of the road in the middle of a rain storm with wife and kids in tow lol. Luckily I had some friends with me who took the family. With family safe at my friends house, we were able to get some hoses at a nearby auto store to try to do a road size repair by cutting the oem hose after the crimp and clamping a new hose over both crimps at the hard line side and cooler side. After a few hours, we had to concede defeat and called a tow as the hoses could not get a good seal over the crimps.
the disco is at a known rover shop near the trail and I ended up having to rent a car to get back home 3 hours away. I’m having the shop repair the transmission line and also replace the ps hoses, pump and reservoir as I’m now paranoid about future failures. Hopefully the disco comes out of the shop better than ever.
some pics and vids of the disco in action before the failure.
