Well I think I resolved my run hot, too much antifreeze grabbed straight by accident instead of 50/50

Drained out 1 gallon yesterday, marked improvement

Drained another gallon today added another gallon of water and major improvement

Idles 176* 180 stat

Left idle in sun 90*+ with a/c on never got past 195* soon as I drove a few blocks at 20 MPH dropped to 185*

So think I found my problem, guess it makes sense why it would not cool down before, need to test mix protection but hopeful this solved my temperature issue

Just for good measure I am thinking I want to put a ball valve in to shut off heater core like I have in my army trucks

Thoughts?



Also got the 120 amp rr alt: installed and reset my adaptive values. 1179 is back

 

Got my off road led bars wired today made an L from aluminum ,mounted relays on one side and remote fuse box on the other

 

That's one of the cleanest ABS removals I've seen. Did you relocate the proportioning valve or leave it on the inner fender?

What's with the wires going to the self tapping screws?

 

We left valve in place, abandoned one line to rear

Those are grounds wanted to keep light wiring self contained, clean and easy, self taps may be temporary I might change em to pop rivets to look nicer

 

If the relays are mounted with the self tappers I'd replace with machine screw/nut before going pop rivet. Much easier to swap if a relay goes bad.

 

All in due time lol, so much to do


Good thing is I still have 2 more circuits on that fuse block


2 of my small led floods have gotten wet inside , took 1 apart and they are sealed real good, every screw even has a purpose, it appears seals broke, the seal is 1 piece silicon , goes under each cap and stretches under the plexi lens, so need to buy some clear silicon to reseal the glass

 

You know, I got a bunch of crap about mounting my relays with pop rivets. But it works and honestly how many relays have gone bad on you out on the trail? Also it's not like off road lights are mission critical and you can't make it home if your light bar relay gets fried. You could also just zip tie a replacement next to it or just take a flat head screw driver and chisel the rivet off. I'm still going to keep using rivets for my relays.

Maybe things are different for you but in the 29 years I've been driving I've never had to replace a relay on the road or the trail. Hell I don't even carry any spares. Although if I do need one there are lots of less critical ones I could probably brow for the ride home.

Of course now that I've said that I'm sure I'll blow a relay next time I'm out wheeling.

 

I guess I was just thinking if you have to drill a hole for the pop rivet, why not just toss a screw/nut in there? I had to replace two of those Hella relays with the built in fuse.

 

On the trail so you could make it home?

It's all personal preference anyway. Most of my brackets are made out of L stock so the nut would be hidden and trying to get at them with a small boxed end wrench is more of pain than drilling or hammering off a rivet. But if I wanted to be fancy, I'd probably put a rivnut there and then use a machine screw. But most of the time I'm to lazy to get that fancy.

 

No, all the critical relays are stock ones and inside the cab.
I'm just blabbing away.