All the basics have been covered twice over. Plugs, wires, coils all replaced twice since January 2016. Injectors replaced last month. 02 sensors replaced twice since January 2016. CPS replaced afew years ago. MAF replaced with used unit afew weeks ago. Block replaced and heads machined in January 2016. This dam truck just does not want to live anymore. Will not work with me at all. 4 cans of fuel and a match is becoming a very possible solution.

On any other car when you replace all the **** Ive replaced, there would be no misfire codes or any other issues for that matter.

Turner wants my mechanic to inspect the flywheel as well as the cps alignment or whatever. Thanks for tip about oil pan, still have to worry about pulling the block to inspect flywheel. Fruitless bs is all it is. Stupid all these dam computers and sensors on board and not one if them tell me what or where the dam problem is. Useless.

 

I think what he is saying is that you can do a basic inspection of the flywheel ( approximately half of it will be visible and can be rotated) with the oil pan off. What he is calling the tone ring is the portion of the flywheel that passes the cps and let's the computer know where the crank is. Wouldn't it be horrific if your cps just didn't have the spacers on it or something?!

I've recently learned that some harnesses have two, one, or no fuel injector harness grounds. I've had three engines and three harnesses and they all had two bright green ground wires, one exiting both sides of the back of the upper intake and the injector looms. If they exist on your harness, they would be bright green. They are often overlooked in a reinstall because of their location. I have overlooked them on my own engines but, like you, I was going to crazy trying to pin down the cause of misfires I did multiple things at once and couldn't tell you if that's a specific cause.

I agree with you, TRIARII, land rover engine management is a sensitive turd.

 

I see.Obviously I know how to remove the oil pan but I feel I would be unqualified to inspect the flywheel or look for spacers or any other potential issues. That area of mechanics is still beyond my level. Ill run your suggestions about that and the fuel injector harness ground by my mechanic, maybe I can save a grand in labor charges......

Looking back through my pictures I see the two holes where the metal SAI pipe bolts onto the upper intake. Dont know why the hell it was not bolter in the first place. Does the pipe get bolted over the top of those 2 holes or underneath?

 

I don't have SAI so someone else will have to answer that one. But I'm with you on the cps and flywheel: I wouldn't know what to look for, either. I just bolt them on and hope for the best. I have swapped flywheels between Engines and never had any sort of problem with them. If you don't put the spacers in the cps it would probably hit the flywheel anyway, but I have read that some forgot to put them on and had bad results.

 

The SAI tube should go on top of the manifold, sandwiched between the bolt head and intake. There is an angled bracket that attaches to the pipe (with nuts) and to the plenum (with bolts)

And put some duct tape or cardboard over the lower intake with the upper intake is out so nothing drops into your heads!

And does anyone know if that black shroud over the fan belt is standard on all discos, or only ACE equipped discos?

 

Jeff I have a non sai Disco and there was a shroud over the compressor portion of the fan belt. A pulley blew and destroyed it, but it used to be there.

 

There is a picture of the flywheel and tone ring notches (which is the little moon-shaped cut outs along the inner circle) in this topic, first page. The topic goes on to talk about repairing the tone ring, but it is an earlier version that had tabs...and they got bent over somehow, yours should be the later style (moon shape cut outs).

https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...missing-48827/

So, as you can see...there is not much you could do to damage the tone ring on your engine...unless it was totally dropped from a few feet. Now, if the mechanic installing the engine hit the flywheel really hard and knocked the crank sensor out of position or damaged it...that could be something worth investigating. The sensor has a small metal probe that sticks out of it, and it could be bent very easily. The sensor is basically a magnet that senses each tooth on the tone ring as it travels past, and there is one spot on the tone ring that has a tooth missing, intentionally, for a reference point of number one cylinder.

I'd first remove the crank sensor...since it is the weakest link/part. Yes, I know you replaced it a few years ago...but it could have been damaged during install. If it checks out...then you have to go deeper (oil pan removal). If the tone ring checks out, okay...and it runs fine...except for codes...I'd reassemble...and drive the F'n thing...lol.

The two bolt holes on the back of your manifold are for the sparkplug wire guides, should have a guide/holder on both sides.

Brian.

 

Okay so inspect the cps, if not bent or damaged reinstall and remove the oil pan and observe notches on the flywheel? Notches are crescent shapped on late D2 models instead of tabs? Look for any bent or missing crescent tabs? But can the flywheel be rotated in a complete rotation in order to inspect all the crescent tabs?

Regarding the 2 holes on back of intake. One of you said thats where the sai metal pipe bolts on. Anyone know what size/diameter bolts and nuts? Someone else said those holes are for ignition wire guides.

Finally should I try to source a replacement plastic tab for the single hole on bottom of the coil bracket? Just trying to get everything installed propery in order to rule out all ridiculous possiable culprits for the misfire codes.

 

Okay, I was talking about the two bolt holes on the outside edges of the manifold...not the two on each side of the single center hole. I'll have to take a look when I get home, manifold is sitting on the bench. I believe the bracket for the coil pack has two bolts closest to the center hole...and that center one is a manifold bolt...but I will check. You should be able to find six holes that are for the manifold bolts, five long bolts and one short one. (again, working off my memory here...and I work on a lot of mechanical stuff...so please check things out)


Yes, the newer style flywheel "tone ring" has the small crescent shaped indentation. Not really much you can do to hurt it, but only God knows what happen when your mechanic installed. Yes, I would check crank sensor first, then remove oil pan if you still want to pursue, yes you can rotate the crank while the oil pan is off to check the complete ring.


Brian.

 

I guess you could rotate the crank pulley and examine the openings on the tone ring (learning new words here.. Thanks Deputy!) that pass the crank sensor but I don't know what you could do to the tone ring that wouldn't also knock off the ring gear. Maybe a wobble in the flywheel if it isn't bolted tight. But then it wouldn't make sense that the truck runs fine then throws codes and that would probably wreak havoc with the flex plate anyway, in short order. If the flywheel was loose it could move in and out when torque is transmitted by the torque converter (attached to flex plate, Attached to flywheel).

Someone correct me if I am wrong but I seem to recall misfires when I had a knock sensor wire burn through and ground. Geez. I hate to even mention other things. TRIARII has been through the ringer!!!! But that would be easy to check and fix.