Already fabricating up some spacers for the front, bothers me now that it sits lower. Thank you, for the info, might have to go 2"...instead of the 1" blocks I've been working on.

Side note...do they camp right where the Rovers on the Rocks takes place?

Brian.

 

There is camp ground on site. It’s not bad it is primitive but has porta-potties. It is chilly out there.

I cleaned around my 110 a bit in the garage as the shop has become out of control. Hoping to have the garage back in shape tomorrow. Need to quit traveling for a bit so I can get some stuff done.

Did build a huge pallet under the back deck to be able to store tires on lol

 

Worked on the rack structure, welded in a few more braces, ready for plastic chicken coup flooring panels.

Brian.

 

Looking good Sir, your bumper bits will be heading north next Friday.

 

​​​​Added rack panels, bumper, brush guard, winch and lights. Lights and winch need wiring up.

Brian.

 

Finished adding a couple extra bolts to each side of the brush guard and replaced output yoke on transfer case (rear). Was getting a banging/clanking in between shifts, mainly up shifting, that was getting worse (which is normally the case...lol). I'd always had a leak at the yoke, so ordered a yoke and seal kit. Once l got the driveshaft off, the problem was very obvious...the yoke nut was terribly loose. Replaced seal and yoke, torqued everything up (108-132 ft lbs) and she shifts much better now and no noise.

Another small adjustment that helped out, down shifting mainly, was adjusting the idle. It had always idled somewhat low, but with no tach...really wasn't sure of rpm (but my guess would be about 500 rpms). Did a quick google search for adjusting injection pump and one of the folks mentioned the idle adjustment bracket gets bent, from folks leaning or stepping on it. Opened hood, reached down and straighten bracket...idle bumped right up to a smoother idle (now around 700 rpms). Down shifting became much, much smoother. Use to have to wait until stopped before down shifting into first, now it smoothly goes into first and second while rolling to a stop.

So, between the idle adjustment and changing yoke...it's like driving a whole different vehicle.

Next project is wiring up the winch.

Brian.

 

I looked at mine lol

 

Did that for seven months...before doing anything...lol.

 

Test drive north...after making repairs.



Ticked off 350 miles, all well. No leaks from transfer case output yoke. Time to get after engine leaks, ordered entire gasket set. Really, the only thing that is leaking, at the moment, is the valve cover gasket. But, ordering from overseas...so figured l get everything. Plus, l'm pretty sure l'm going to do the head gasket before giing to Alaska.

Brian.

 

Changed both diff and transfer case fluids, removed load bearing device in rear that mounts between frame and rear axle (both joints are wornout, bought new joints, but not sure if l'm putting it back on or not) and greased u-joints.

Nice to crawl underneath and not have transfer case fluid dripping, seal and yoke did the job.

Received a package of goodies yesterday, rear brake shoes/drums, front pads/rotors, complete engine gasket set, tire carrier (orginal version, one l was fabbing up got out of control, much to heavy...so going with this for awhile), and some other odds and ends. Finally taking some of my own advice, getting after maintenance end of things, instead of working on window dressing.

Brian.