Ok I will try with a jumper wire from the negative of the battery and test again pin 25 and S312

I obtain these results with the key ON but also with the key OFF, so it is not normal and as I said above something discharges the battery (ignition off). I think both problems are linked.

Z132=ECU, the ground connections are pins 14, 40 and I measure 0 Ohms, so it seems ok.

I already clean all the ground bolts that I saw. I will check again.

 

Next step will be to test Relay 22 (Main Relay). (See message of 21 November). In addition to the voltage checks discussed, a simple relay test is to remove it, then connect 12 V battery to the relay coil (bobine), and hear the click sound (make sure the positive is on the correct terminal, because of the diode). Also can check ohms of the switch terminals (changes from infinite to zero). If the main relay is not working, then the truck will not work. After the Main Relay is good, then we can check the TPS.

For the TPS, a simple ohm test will tell us if the TPS itself is good, and is easier than using voltages. First unplug the TPS, then measure ohms Y to G (should read high constant value at any throttle position). Then measure ohms G to R, and slowly open and close the throttle (should read between low ohms {nearly zero} and high ohms {nearly the same value as Y to G} and the ohm value should change smoothly as the throttle position is changed slowly. If the ohms change suddenly while the throttle position is changing, then the TPS is bad (wiper is worn out).

Check ohms to terminals 14 and 40 using a jumper wire to battery negative. The jumper wire is used to find any potential bad ground connection or bad wire. If the ohm value is significantly greater than zero, that is a problem. Use the lowest ohm setting of the meter, and measure the leads and jumper wire first.

Long distance troubleshooting is not so easy. Let me know what you find.

 

For the moment, I have only do test these :

Relay 22 (main relay) : I already test it => ok
and I try with another relay => same result

TPS Ohms measurements:
Y/G = 6 K Ohms (stable)
G/R = 300 Ohms to around 7000 Ohms with smoothly evolution
So TPS seems ok (I have 2 TPS now)

For the other tests I will be done in January after Christmas time and I will let you know.

 

Just to let you know, the Range Rover is now working !
As I mentioned in December, something was discharging the battery (ignition off), so it might have been a problem with the wiring. I got these results with the key ON, but also with the key OFF, so it wasn't normal, and as I mentioned above, something was discharging the battery (ignition off).I thought the two problems were related.

So I changed my method of investigation and tried to find the current leak.I bought a clamp meter and checked all the wires connecting the battery to the ECU.
When I disconnected the ECU, I didn't have the leak, so I tested all 40 wires in the ECU.
The link was on wires 14, 40, and 27, and wire 11 was broken (maybe after a lot of fiddling, I'm not sure, because my continuity was fine before).
But now I have no more current leaks and the Range starts...

 

Glad to hear you are back on the road. So, you found current flows at 14, 40, 27, but did you need to repair them? How did you fix it? Was it an issue with the ignition switch or main relay?