Sage advice by all. I may have another look at it but the electrical seems pretty daunting. Certainly part-wise it's worth more but who has the time to take it apart and list everything...all for a few hundred bucks in profit?

Thanks for the pdf's Buzz. It's the same thing I saw in the owner's manual. I didn't see anything regarding fusable links though.

The battery in the vehicle is very weak, barely turns it over. I may try a fresh battery from one of my other vehicles.

I'll keep you guys posted.

 

Here's a pix of the front of the fuse box. The big square things with two screws are the fuse links, can unscrew, remove, and meter. Clean up contacts with sandpaper, etc.

The two wires in front of fuse box are the link to alternator, and the link to underhood fuse box, so any corrosion on these two is bad, just like a dirty battery terminal.

 

Excellent Buzz. I'll look at those tomorrow. They all looked to be intact earlier today but I may need to meter them. Just a continuity check right?

I'm not sure if I mentioned earlier that one electrical device does work...the driver's side windshield wiper. Pass side does not move. What more do you really need though?

 

Continuity on the fuse links, and just take a small metal brush with you to clean up conectors and such, take small tools, etc.

 

Electrical issues are a headache but if you're patient and dont mind chasing wires they are generally cheap or free to fix. You cant go wrong at $400 in my opinion, people around here get $1500-$2000 for them with locked up engines. Its hard to find a running lawn mower for $400, much less a Land Rover. It is a storage place though so you can offer less. Or you could tell me where it is

 

Ha! Northwest Montana is a long way from VA but if I don't take it I'll let you know! ;-)

 

If it were near me I'd snap it up. Whitefish is a bit far though.

 

And in Montana - how could it have ever overheated???? Now cracked block from low anti-freeze - that's another issue. Would be nice if it would idle for 20 minutes or so without overheat....

 

Went back to take another look at her and the hits just keep on coming. I'm beginning to believe all the screaming I hear every time I am near this thing are a warning cry rather than a plea for help!

I did discover the 100 Amp fuse under the hood is open. What caused that is of course a mystery but it may explain why basically nothing works electrically.

I wanted to let it warm-up for 20 min and drive it. I had noticed earlier that there wasn't any fluid in the rad over-flow. So I started pouring in water to top it off when I heard the tell-tale splashing of water coming out onto the ground. It didn't take long to find a freeze plug popped. Easy fix right?

| O'Reilly Auto Parts

Finally I did take it for a very quick spin around the block. I wanted to try and shift the transfer case. It wouldn't shift out of 4-hi. I put it in nuetral, applied the foot and parking brake as the manual says but it would not move forward and back. Side to side it's very loose (not bad but like a man trans in nuetral). Does the 4X4 light (diff lock) stay illuminated all the time or just in low? The light is on and it felt like I was driving in 4X4 (I know it's all wheel drive) during tight parking-type manuevers.

More thoughts?

 

The 100 amp is between the alternator and the battery. "H" Light comes on in lock, high or low. That would wear out tires and other parts on paved road if used for long periods. Freeze plug says it was protected - the plug popped. Maybe worth buying one at parts store and pounding it in partially (so you can remove and do a proper job) for testing.