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Were you able to access the base idle bypass screw? It is covered by a small (about 3/8 inch) metal cap from factory. It controls the small air path around the right side of the throttle plate. Maybe could use a quarter turn CCW or more. The bypass path is different than the large IACV path.
Maybe try spraying carb cleaner through the small bypass path. Even could extract the base idle screw to ensure the tip and seat area are clean and clear. If you take the screw out, be sure to count how many turns so you can replace it correctly. Then adjust it to get about 500 rpm with IACV blocked with a rubber cap and plug.
The PCV path feeds upstream of the throttle plate so that area can get all gunked up, including the bypass port. Sounds like you are making some progress.
Well I decided to do multiple things at once and then made a mistake. I went to re-route the distributor amplifier from the new distributor I bought and Now I can't figure out which colored wire goes where on the distributor
EDIT:
My internet sleuthing answered my own question New Style with Amp on Distributor Old style with Amp behind Left Headlight
Well thank you everyone for your help. I got the truck back up and running but Immediately after taking it on its maiden voyage after getting it all figured out, I think I have a rod knock. I am curious as to what everyone thinks. I am attaching a mp3 of the sound. I have stopped driving and am not sure how to proceed.
I agree with John. Time to drive it. Like he says, a slight exhaust leak, especially at the manifold to head, can sound like an engine knock. If this is the case, it’s usually easily fixed by just tightening the bolts. If the gasket is blown out it’s a bit more work, but still not too bad.
