so im getting ready to do the 60K service (at 84K) as recommended by disco mike.
1) As far as the grease for all my grease fittings, does it matter what type?
2) Is this also the same stuff that goes into the u-joints?
3) What about the gear lube for the diffs? 75w-140? i've heard a bunch of numbers thrown out there, as long as it's close to that it's ok? Also make sure it's GL-4 right?
4) My Anti freeze and ATF have never been done (to my knowledge, got the car at 74K). Can i just straight drain and replace both or should the antifreeze be back flushed by someone? i'm gonna have a shop do a coolant pressure test because it'll only be 20$ but to buy the pressure tester, the cheapest ive seen is $40, and i need to find my leak.
5) Anything else i should know before i jump in? Should i seafoam while i'm at it? (if the answer is yes, can i have a brief step by step? I heard there's a vaccum couple at the passenger side of the throttle body, but does it go in while running? how fast/slow?
Lot of questions, sorry, but thanks for the help.

Turf

 

I have a 97 DI with less than 120K that I have done a lot to, so I will speak up.I have avoided the seafoam treatment becuase I don't want to risk it. Yours is relatively low miles, so unless it is acting up, why risk the seafoam treatment? They have been a few horror stories of problems associated with it. I know lots of people have used it, but I don't plan to.

Also, use good quality parts. I prefer Rovers North, but there are a few other good sorces as well. Atlantic British is one. I have used Pro-Line parts for calipers, rotors, spark plug wires, fuel pump assembly just to name a few.

I just did my transfer case with the 75w140 using a cheap hand pump from Advance Auto. The hand pump made it easy. I had already done the front and rear diffs with Mobil One 75w90. Also the swivel *****.

The main thing I have not done was drop the tranny pan and do the filter.
I did drain and refill the tranny. I drained and refilled the radiator as well.
At least the tranny on the DI has a dipstick, the DII does not.

Also look at your main ground connections while you are doing it.

And don't forget about the wheel bearings as well.

 

Thanks, wasn't really aware that the seafoam came with a downside but i'll definitely stay away if thatsthe case, i'm not having any issues with idle or anything, i'm just trying to get everything in as good of shape as possible so i can maintain it on a routine basis for the rest of what i hope to be a long life.
ok, t-case gets 75w-140, diffs get 75w-90. I see you used mobil-1, is this gear oil syn to begin with or do i need ot do anything special to them before changing to a mobil 1 type diff oil.
With the antifreeze, all i have to do is disconnect the lower radiator hose right? Drain and refil?
Rotors will need to be replaced, they have some pretty serious grooves in them (thank you previous owner) but i just need to get it stickered this month to buy me some time.
Thanks for the insight!

 

I just noticed you are in Phillie, I'm just outside Pittsburgh, so I'm familar with the PA inspections. I got the rotors and pads set from Rovers North, great price and solid quality (Pro-Line). You will/may also need the wheel bearings either replace or clean and repack if good. There is a secial adapter socket to remove the locking nut to pull the hubs off. (Part of replacing the rotors) There are bearing seals and a papergasket as well. If you order from Rovers North, they carry all the little stuff, just tell them what you are doing and ask them to include all the little goodies. It is much better to get it all before you start rather than find out you need something half way thru. I usually call them while looking at their website.
They will walk you thru all the items you need. As far as I am concered they provide excellent service and have all the right parts and have answered all my quetions.

I was able to clean and repack my bearings so I kept the new ones for later on. You not belif howmany people have them self destruct while driving, then you have real problem to deal with. The RAVE has all the info and here are other write-ups on the web as well covering step by step directions.

Allow plenty of time and use PB Blaster on all the fasteners to help break them loose.

I bought new bolts for the caliper mounting as well as the kit that contains new springs, clips etc for the brake job.

One big precaution: the metal brake lines that attach to the calipers are easily broken or damaged. To avoid having to replace them, remove the brake line from the caliper before you unbolt the caliper from the vehicle. That way you don't have the weight of the caliper on the delicate brake line. I broke one of my front ones and had to buy replacements.

 

I saw you were from pittsburgh, my wife is from north huntingdon if you know where that is, i believe a bit east of the city.

I'm going to pull my wheels tomorrow to inspect the pads, im confident my mechanic will pass the rotors, but they'll need to be done eventually. How, when i have the wheels off, can i tell if the wheel bearings need to be re-packed or replaced? (btw good info on the socket adapter). I really want to start tearing through this car and getting to know it to make sure it lasts. So maybe later down the road the wife will let me lift it and paint it flat black

 

It is a good idea to repack your wheel bearings every 60k, or everytime you replace the rotors.
But make sure you have all the parts first, you will need new hub seals.
www.atlanticbritish.com has wheel bearing kits, 2 bearings, oil seal and hub seal for $60.
You will need 4.
You can get the parts locally but I do not know the part numbers.

 

Go ahead and download the RAVE manual. It has the entire document library on it. I always print all the associated pages for whatever system and task that I am [;anning on doing. I treat the printout as a work order basically to get familar with whatever system I am working on.

I go thru it and mark it up as I need to, note the required tools, any special adapters or anything I am not familar with. There are also a few other sites that have good how-to write-ups. I also make sure my digital camera is charged and ready to go.

I try to take pics as I go in case I have to look back at them if any issues arise during re-assembly. Rovers North has a good parts breakdown section for each vehicle on it's website that you can refer to as needed to check out the associated parts/prices. They are hard to beat but there are other good sources as well. I like dealing with RN because of their excellent knowledge and general helpfulness. Especially Les or Rob Smith. Both very knowledgeable about the Discovery.

AB is excellent as well for having a well stocked warehouse and quick turnaround on orders.

There are also a few good sites for used parts, Will Tillery, Roverguy.com is a great source, but you have to call him pretty much, his website is not very detailed but he will give you a righteous deal on used stuff if he has it. Just do your research before you call him and know what you are looking for.

I have worked my way thru most of the systems on my Discovery and enjoy it very much. I am sure you can as well.

Use lots of PB Blaster and a nice long breaker bar and things will ome apart much easier. You have to approach it wit a high degree of finesse.
And whn that doesn't work, I grab my Fat Max and pop it good and hard.