The factory grease is 375ml it looks like:

Swivel Housing Grease - 375ML Tube for Defender 110, Steering & Suspension Parts

And they called them "one shot" so I assume that meant you just put one in. I doubt it will hurt to put a little extra in if it fits. Just see how big the 00 grease bottle is. If it's 750ml or so, put half in each side?

 

Oil - fill it till it comes out the fill level port. On the axles with a drain plug, there's three plugs: drain, level and fill. On the later/newer ones, there's no drain - just the level and fill plugs.

Grease - clean all the old crap out, and if using the "one shot" tube then force one tube (375 ml) worth into the swivel. As Jafir mentioned, it's called a "one shot" because it'll serve one swivel.

 

Overfilling the swivels will oil will cause leaks, the oil will get hot and expand and blow out the seals.
And that point is when you club them.

 

I ended up adding 350ml oil since I couldn't find the grease. I have the newer housings and it didn't feel right just adding a fixed amount without knowing how much was already in there. Didn't realize there was a level plug. Only saw the fill. I'll have to find it and correct.

 

I have never seen a "level" plug on the later model swivels, but that does not mean they are not there.

 

Here's mine. Top arrow is fill, center arrow is level check, bottom arrow is drain and it is a very small screw. IMHO overfill is a non-issue. Oil, slurry of oil and grease, or grease (Red and Tacky, Green Grease, etc.) - it's all good and better than a leaked down dry one.

 

Mine is just like Savannah's. The first time I serviced it, there was very little in it. I drained it and filled with the 85-90W with no problems. After a couple of years, I drained that and used the 0ne-shot from Rovah Farms, about half of what AB charges.

I did the front and rear diffs with 85-90W, but when I did the transfer case a little later I went with 84-140W and it really quieted down the t-case whine.

Make sure you clean those banjo drain plugs on the top of the front and rear axles. Unbolt them and blow them out with shop air if possible.