Just wait till you get to do head gaskets that's when the real fun starts

The right stuff deffinitly seems like the thing to use for a lot of applications just don't plan on taking it back apart lol, problem with regular Rtv is people do not read the package,,it states minimum 24 hour dry time, I have seen a lot of engines ruined by orange Rtv , brand new engines installed by mechanics in shops in a hurry, slap on all the covers with rtv, drop engine in, add oil fire up all in one work day, then a few days later comes back with rod knock, no oil pressure, drop pan pickup clogged solid with rtv

 

Head gaskets. I can hardly wait. Fortunately, mine seem to be okay at the moment.

I did follow the instructions on the RTV and let it dry for 24 hours before adding oil and starting, I just used too much of it, especially in combination with a cork gasket, and I covered both sides of the cork gasket with RTV... Doh! So who knows, I may even find bits of cork in the rocker assemblies when I get them apart to clean them next weekend.

 

In other news, I just started a new thread on an interesting transfer case problem I'm having this morning. Thread is located here.

 

I'm wondering what this is telling me: the leak coming from the timing cover seems to have worsened overnight. Photo is attached.

Is this a simple case of oil passages blocked and not letting the oil drain back into the pan, or a sign that the pump is failing?

The timing cover is sealed with RTV Red (again by the previous owner) and I'm already planning to reseal it with The Right Stuff. Good idea to go ahead and replace the pump while I'm at it?

 

If you know it hasn't been replaced, while the cover is off is great time to check it...... chain and sprockets, chain tensioner..... Kinda like a Rover motor front end picnic. With the oil gear rotor it's not so much the tooth wear as it is the front cover and rotor plate wear because if it's out of spec a new rotor won't bring up the pressure much more than what you have now. Then you'd be buying a new front cover and plate and they aint cheap. There are ways around that too. We'll see what you find first......

 

The PO replaced the oil pump and water pump, but I'm not sure if the cover is the original or a replacement... But yeah, a new front cover is basically a second mortgage or selling myself on the street corner and I don't swing that way. But definitely planning a front cover party in the next week or two.

Still wondering if the cold starting issue is related to the fuel pump. The threads related to this issue suggest that if the key on/key off/repeat trick works, then it's a good chance the pump is going bad. Of course, mine is a '97 California vehicle so I think it's an AEL system. How can I determine that for sure?

Just topped off the t-case which has been leaking at the front and rear seals. That should keep it wet until I can learn how to drop it and replace the seals... or afford to have someone else do it. So at least I got something done this weekend. I started a new thread on that because I was going to drain and refill it with 85W-140 to slow the leak, but I found something weird blocking the drain hole. As it turns out, I mistakenly bought a quart of 85W-90 and that's what I used to top it off. Didn't even notice it until it was already topped off. Here's the link.

 

I pinpointed the source of the leak. It's not coming from the edges of the cover through the RTV, it's coming from an indented "cap" on the cover itself just above and behind the filter. The "cap" has what looks like a c-clip retainer around the edge. This seems to be the only leak coming from the cover, and it's not coming from anywhere above this point. I know because I wiped everything down thoroughly and watched for the oil to reappear. Photos are below.

 

Oil pressure by-pass valve....... That should be an easy fix. Heck, just remove the circlip and it should push out the plug with spring pressure (might have to tap it a couple of times). They use an O-ring to seal this plug - hardware store item.

 

My first thought when I looked at it was: c-clip = removable = easy fix. Done. Thank you.

 

Bitch to get back in, and yes oring, don't go to fat on boring and lube it