97 disco just died
Pro Wrench
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 1,512
Likes: 172
From: Central Minnesota
May sound really dumb, but check the fuses below the steering column
my inertia switch only has 2 wires. Both the same color which I connected together to eliminate the inertia switch. Now I just have to remember NOT to tip over...
I have a fuel pump gauge but it is made for the american cars and their larger pressure check valves. Is there someplace that sells an adapter or just the screw on end for the schrader valve?
my inertia switch only has 2 wires. Both the same color which I connected together to eliminate the inertia switch. Now I just have to remember NOT to tip over...
I have a fuel pump gauge but it is made for the american cars and their larger pressure check valves. Is there someplace that sells an adapter or just the screw on end for the schrader valve?
Last edited by jimvw57; Dec 29, 2013 at 10:59 AM.
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Mudding
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 104
Likes: 0
From: Halifax, Nova Scotia
not sure about the fluid really have had it for three years just in case my favorite one broke down , so that is why it has been put into action. I took the center consol apart and managed to get the diff lock freed up but not the high low range (up and down) but I am sure it will in time. i think I will power the pump up in the green one to move it to a better location for working ,I do have a spare relay and tried that but still no power to the pump oh well something to do ha ha thanks
Camel Trophy
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 4,245
Likes: 402
From: Traverse City MI
I removed the pin from the neutral solenoid in my transfer case so it would shift high/low. Worked although the dog lever was just about seized from not using it so it took some working it to free it up.
The connector at the pump is short to the next connector in the loom. It's like a pig-tail. When pump brushes go they generate allot of resistance which makes the connectors heat up, melt, burn the pins and deform the connectors. I think you've isolated fairly well so far just by what you've done. I'd put eyeballs on the next connector up from the pump connector just to satisfy my curiosity. And again the ground wire for the pump is on a stud about at the same level as the rear cargo door latch.
Nothing like bone brittle cold to bring out the best in a Rover........ I went one winter in five that I didn't do a thing to it but gas and oil. This year it's the CDL and yet another head gasket which makes that my third. Kinda wondering if it's all worth it? Probably time to deck the block at 170k, I've been looking for a good block to build. Ah, anyways, my truck has always been a project, bought it in really lousy shape and made something of it and it's made something of me......grumpy but gifted.
The connector at the pump is short to the next connector in the loom. It's like a pig-tail. When pump brushes go they generate allot of resistance which makes the connectors heat up, melt, burn the pins and deform the connectors. I think you've isolated fairly well so far just by what you've done. I'd put eyeballs on the next connector up from the pump connector just to satisfy my curiosity. And again the ground wire for the pump is on a stud about at the same level as the rear cargo door latch.
Nothing like bone brittle cold to bring out the best in a Rover........ I went one winter in five that I didn't do a thing to it but gas and oil. This year it's the CDL and yet another head gasket which makes that my third. Kinda wondering if it's all worth it? Probably time to deck the block at 170k, I've been looking for a good block to build. Ah, anyways, my truck has always been a project, bought it in really lousy shape and made something of it and it's made something of me......grumpy but gifted.
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