OK I have been leaking oil for awhile now on my 97 disco SE, I've noticed the spray likes to keep on the driver's side, now im leaking coolant... With the same issue going to the driver's side. In fact I filled the reservoir up at 0600 this am and by 1400 i was back to low...I only ran the vehicle for maybe ten minutes to pick my daughter up from school. Ive been stressing the worst which is a cracked block but at the same time the disco has never over heated so I don't see why id have a crack. Then i was told head gasket to get a gasket and new bolts which would cost 500.00 seems like a lot for a gasket set and some bolts... Anyways I'm lost yet again in the world of rover any help would be great.

 

That price is very high. Check with some of the forum sponsors, and you will find head gasket kit with new bolts, should be no more than 200.00.

 

That's a little better, but does that sound like my issue??? Or should I still check for cracks even though there hasn't been any over heating? Also what about barrs leaks gasket repair I've never tried it before.

 

We purchased a complete gasket set (Victor-Reinz or Eurospare cant remember which) off Ebay and new stretch bolts also. You will want to get some Copper spray(gasket sealer) and spray both sides of head gasket.
You may know this already, but have someone check the heads to make sure they are not warped(you may have to get them milled, but only have them milled the minimum).
You really want to pinpoint both leaks, because the front cover and water pump could be the culprits.

 

I would really try to pinpoint where both leaks are coming from. My sons front cover was leaking and his water pump was leaking. Oil does not normally come from the head gaskets, but from the valve covers, front cover, oil pan front crankshaft seal(on front cover). Now coolant leaks can come from darn near anywhere, heads, waterpump, hoses.

 

Oh boy OK. Guess I'll have to break some of it down and see where the problems are. I know my pan drips but I didn't really worry about it, just kept checking the oil. Just kind of shocked me to fill it up with coolant and a matter of hours its almost empty. The thing I didn't like is there's fluid from the radiator down to the transfer case... I'll look at the RAVE in the morning as well. How long do you think it would take me to replace gaskets? And from 1 to 10 how difficult? Ive done a good bit tank swaps, fuel pumps, window motors, starters, and brakes but I've never touched actual engine. Don't mean to sound like a pansy but I'm on a low budget with my daily driver, I've got to get my girl running.

 

You sound pretty handy with the things you have done. I would get a rag and clean the areas best you can, fill the cooling system, chock the wheels, put in park with e-braket on. Get a flash light, start the vehicle and get under it and try to find where it is leaking. Common areas for oil leak are valve cover gaskets, front cover(either the cover itself, front seal behind the harmonic balance(engine pulley), and of course the oil pan. If yours has an oil cooler, check the lines for leakage where they go into the front cover(mine did not have cooler, but the plugs in the cover were leaking and needed o-rings) The fan can blow oil all over the lower engine, tranny area. With the engine off, feel behind the Harmonic balance and see if it is oily.
You should be able to see where the large hose connects to the water pump, and see if it is dripping, If the water pump is dripping from behind the pulley(there is a weep hole), then the pump needs replacing.
If the coolant is leaking from the area between the head and block, head gaskets are probably the culprit.
On the head gasket repair, hard for me to say difficulty, because I have been working on engines for 45+ years.
My son whom, has only done maintenance on engines, did the head gasket job, with my supervision, and was uneventful. It took him about 15 or so hours, but only worked on it in the afternoons, when I could be there to tell him what to do next.
I would read up on the rave manual, Take the parts off as needed and keep them in line in the order of removal, and try to put bolts in there holes if possible or right next to the part.
we took pics with phone before and during, to make sure we got it back together right.
It fired up first time and has had no issues.
It is imperative that all the mating parts are cleaned thoroughly before installation.
I would be more than happy to answer questions and help where I can. Hopefully the leaks can be found and repaired easily.
By the way, this was the first Land Rover I have worked on and one of the easier vehicles, including engines to repair.
Being an all aluminum engine, you will definitely want to buy or borrow a good torque wrench, because you can easily strip threads on aluminum

 

Start by looking at radiator for leaks.
......

 

I did so far I've narrowed it down to either driver side gasket or somewhere in the back, had a guy tell me freeze plugs? And knowledge on that? I also noticed its holding fluid a little better this morning not much taking it soon to jack and see what else I can find.

 

Get yourself a pressure tester and see what leaks with a little pressure in the cooling system.

I used this on my Astro van but it also fit on my D1 Land Rover too Found out I had a weak cap on the radiator..

If the leak is too big, you may not be able to build up much pressure, but if you fill the system up. it should leak pretty good with the added pressure.

It is best to fix it rather than to mess with any type of sealer as that stuff could make things worse by sealing up a weak radiator or heater core (if they are partially blocked)