Are you aware of the fuel pump cutoff switch under the hood along the firewall?

 

I have a feeling that the guys fuel pump repair has fallen part or a clamp has come off.
People who do the "pump only" repair have been having 50/50 luck with them.
If it is not done right it wont work.
Roll up the carpet in the cargo area and remove the fuel pump and check his work.
I am betting a clamp has come undone.
I say this because the pump is running, the gas tank is pressurizing and you know he replaced just the pump and not the whole unit.
If a clamp came loose and the pump is just pumping fuel directly back into the tank it will pressurize the tank.

 

ok so got the rover to the house today after trying out a few things.....
rover


1) the fuel rail has no pressure with gas cap on while attempting to start

2) loosening or removing the cap brings 40psi or 2.5 bar to the fuel rail while attempting to start . looses pressure right away because cap off
I would guess

The second time we tried to start with out cap engine didnt just crank but turned over as well -HOPE!

could not get to happen again back to cranks but does not turn. Battery sounded low tested battery with meter while sitting = 12.68
while key at 2 pump running 10.28 ish fluctuating
turn key to start and voltage dropped to 6-9

now the 100 amp fuse for the alternator looks corroded (blue gunk) on the
inside of the cover part - tested and seems fine....when not under load anyway

took fuse in to try to find one, could not, so bought battery and installed
now i was trying to test this fuse as the vehicle was trying to start and could not get consistent results....anyone know how i might test under load?

ordered new 100 amp fuse anyway but trying to keep troubleshooting...

replaced battery.....reading 12.87 when sitting
reading 10.47 ish when pump actuated
jumping from 10..47ish to 11.27 ish while trying to start

Feel better about that.....

so crank some few turn overs they are weak do not take...then more cranking no turn over

Notes: did call Land rover today 3 recalls open on the vehicle including gas tank.....

Last owner says he replaced fuel pump multifunction relay with a used one - unknown if tested ...anyway to test this?

when testing from positive on battery to frame near battery grounding bolt on frame getting fluctuations when i test on the bolt getting 12.67 ...dont know if this means anything just observations.....

At the starter two red wires big one to the battery and a small red one that plugs in with a fitting .....goes up the engine to ?? the ignition?? (I think) wires are oily read of voltage drain due to this....so I wanted to run wire directly from battery to starter ......I cant really access this area of the starter......seems like the shroud is permenantly attached to vehicle?
Is there access im missing (i hope) or can someone dumb down how i can test this with no access to where the wire feeds the starter?

I am going out to check the charcoal canister and valve now ....let you know what I find .............

Danny , I am aware of the fuel shut off it was not active during any check of it ....I keep checking ....but this should not be the issue since i have pressure when cap off right ? plus I hear the pump....

sorry if i am misunderstanding the shut-off but I have never seen or felt what happens when it is triggered - When triggered I have come to believe that the pump WILL NOT RUN - that is shuts off the power to the pump so that it will not pump gas in case of crash.....or if alarms system shuts it down...is this right ?

Does the starter crank when the alarm locks down the vehicle? or the key get hard to turn??

also please explain PRE-AEL ? what does that refer to ?


Spike, please do let me know if you still think i should check the pump since i have pressure with cap off THANKS, also please not previous owner says the pump is of the threaded variety ........also tank has not had recall work, do you think that during recall work they will fix this problem if I tow it there? test the whole fuel system at that time ......will they charge me out the butt for other parts on the fuel system or cover it just to get their recall work done and tested?

 

ok sorry forgot to mention above the Rover was towed to the house....... just wont start sounds like it would like to sometimes but then not so much at all.....always cranks.....ok goin back out.....thanks everybody

 

Things that have been tried on the Land Rover to get it running:
Changed the fuel pump (fuel pump only, not the entire fuel assembly)
Changed the inline fuel filter underneath the passenger rear tire area
- correct direction confirmed
Changed the fuel relay (underneath the hood, on the passenger fender)
- used off ebay
Changed the crank sensor, next to the exhaust behind the driver's side tire
Changed the fuel temperature sensor
Replaced 2 green relays inside the truck, passenger side floor
Checked fuses (underneath the steering wheel & underneath the hood, close to the battery)

replaced battery
opened gas cap.....have pressure when trying to start now still no start though .....used Fuel multifunction to blame ? any way to test ?

suspicious of :

• 100amp alt fuse corrosion

• starter not getting enough kick - either due to this fuse or oil on wires going to starter
• old fuel multifuction relay used with new pump
• pressure regulator -although pressure at rail with cap off doesn't make sense to me if pressure reg was bad

 

1. If the gas tank is pressurized then you would have the OPPOSITE result from what you say is happening. There would be an outward force of air with pressure build up... "sucks air in" would be a vacuum in the tank.

2. The check and service Engine lights will stay illuminated IF there is a code to keep it on...otherwise they will go out even if the truck does not start.

3. Here is the info on the fuel tank recall http://www.landroversonly.com/forums...4-97-d1-26799/

4. Look below in my signature and click on the link which reads "Workshop Manuals" Download what is called "Rave"...This book will walk you through each and every step you will need to know about servicing your disco. This resource is an absolute must have if you do any of the work yourself.

 

Danny Lee, Read this in a different thread. It has been awhile since you posted it. I am in need of the fuel pump (motor) and was wondering if you still have it and are willing to send it. Things are a bit tight on this end and it would be a few weeks before I could buy a new pump. I can send you a check or cash to cover shipping and your time. Thanks for your gracious offer. Please let me know either way.
Thanks, Jeff

 

ok Just to clear things up........I have the manual .............have had the manual.....and I have been reading it and checking things out for sure -

I am confused because someone has said the tank was recalled for starving the engine of gas from not venting properly - I can not find anything to confirm this besides a couple of post to this forum that say loosen the gas cap to drive home - has worked for some....

This led me to question the venting in the tank/or at least consider the dynamics of what a vacuum would cause- so i checked the fuel pressure
i did this with a tire gauge- while pump was running in position 2 and while vehicle was cranked

• with gas cap on 0 bar , 0 psi - same result, in 2 and starting
• with off or loose 40 psi , 2.5 bar - same result in 2 and starting

I have looked for codes and do not get any- even though I have CEL, SRS, and BAT light that do not go off in position 2 after after any amount of time

Ok so what im looking to find out is if anyone who knows more about cars than i do can tell me / confirm my thoughts that

1. regulator is NOT BAD since i have pressure with cap off -would this be correct ? or not?
2. or tell me anything else that could be causing both the non start regardless of pressure at rail AND the fuel pressure drop when cap on

I think I may have an electrical issue - just trying not to chase shadows guys.....the book is great - but am i missing something??? -

Cosmic you are correct , it must be a vacuum , not pressurized tank .....so looking last night in the rave I am trying to figure out ways to test the vacuum system or get some advise on where to start next the electrical system , emissions.....

just for some background......I have owned a school bus for 10 years with 404 IH , own propane powered IH dump truck, have owned two Trooper one cuurently in for body work..... I have worked on all these vehicles , with much success - along with every other vehicle ive owned - I love manualls!!!

they are great, but have left me im a little perplexed.... from the results of my testing just looking for someone to review all that ive said get me focused cause I feel like im all over the place -

If someone could tell me what page of the rave I should start from at this point knowing all that I do now that would be AWESOME -

I am going to try to get codes again and check for spark, pull the plugs check if wet....and go through lucas contant energy IS checks......etc...

I dont mean to sound rude at all - just a girl tryin to fix a truck....and every boy around me is just as confused as I am ...

I should maybe mention im in florida, vehicle is from florida.....and there is essentially no rust on the vehicle....

Does anyone think that the 100 amp ALT fuse could keep the vehicle from starting ?

And could someone please let me know how or if the shroud around the starter can be removed? again in appears to be rivited and the manual does not mention unless i missed completely!!

anyone who know what V4 is measuring would be a great help to - I am reading this as take a reading from the frame/ground to some bolt or screw on the amplifier - or some where near it on a casing ? page 816 RAVE

pic would be awesome if you know where to take this reading....

Thanks everybody -












I will check for codes again -

 

I would start by having the LR dealer replace the fuel tank under the recall.That would be imperative in resolving your problems. I am no expert on these fuel tanks but from what I read the tanks were prone to collapsing/splitting. Get that done first as it will need to be done anyway. And I think that is done at their cost but it only covers them removing and replacing your fuel tank as far as I know. They would be transferring your existing fuel pump assembly from your old tank to the new one. If there is an obvious problem with the pump (such as clamp off or such) they would see it and most likely resolve it. Talk to their service writer and maybe they will test your existing fuel pump assembly as part of that repair, since they would be moving it from your old to new tank. They should at least be doing a functional test after tank replacement. The bulk of your problems may be the old tank. It does not operate on vacumn, your symptoms are that it is creating a vacumn, especially since it is 0 pressure at fuel rail with cap on but 40 with cap off.

In my opinion, the tank needs a degree of pressure integrity to properly function. It may not need to be perfect, but it should hold some pressure for some period of time, not instantly go to zero. Others may disagree but I have not seen any proof of such.

Pre-AEL is the version that the 96 and the "early" 97 have. AEL stands for Advanced Emissions Loss or some such thing, again I am going by personal experience with my own vehicle.

Look at my photo album and you will see several pictures of what the fuel pump assembly looks like. The pre-AEL is about half the replacement price of the AEL version.
Go to the Rovers North website and look at the fuel system section. They have excellent illustrations that show you a lot. Their ProLine assembly is what I bought and it was the best 100 bucks I have spent yet on my Discovery. I high recommnend it if you are still having fuel deliveery issues after replacement of the fuel tank.

The fuel pump assembly is under a black plate under the carpet and pad in the rear cargo area. If you have not taken a look at it you should get familar with it. Mine was also corroded, so I bought a new one of those from RN at the same time as I got my pump assembly from them. I had to drill out some of the screws on the old one to get it out.


Also you have a voltage drop somewhere. I would bet it is the location where the starter ground lug attaches to the frame. I merely cut the lug off of my existing ground cable, stripped the cable and crimped on a new lug and attached it directly to the frame and my intermittent start problem completely cleared up. On mine, it would not even turn over, Dead silence when turning the key to the start position. I even bought a used starter and was in the process of removing the old one but was having one hell of a time trying to unbolt the original starter. I redid the ground and now the starter works fine each and every time and my replacement is sitting on my garage shelf.

That shield does unbolt. Mine is still off as it has been for over a year. It was a pain to get off,so it ain't going back on.

Any fuse that has a odd color residue on it ain't staying in my Rover either. Replace it and be safe.

 

I will be glad to send you the one I removed. I was going to PM you, but I guess since you are new, PM is not available?