Here's some pics for some of you new people to see what I had to deal with on my fuel pump and fuel line problems.

I was in the process of attempting to remove and replace my starter, when I lifted the fuel lines out of their clamps on the frame, I discovered the old fuel lines were so corroded that merely lifting them from the clamps resulted in multiple leaks. The lines and clamps had corroded so badly that the metals had suffered molecular migration such that the two surfaces were physically bonded together and the lines no longer had any pressure integrity.

Look at the advanced state of corrosion between the filter body and it's clamp. The clamp was mostly gone and the filter body developed a pinhole spraying gasoline right out the side of the filter body. The clamps for each fuel line had become one with the body of the tubing. The tubing was so corroded it readily trwisted apart with very little effort. That's the state of things I found merely trying to change the starter.

So one important thing to realize on an older D1 that you just bought is that even a simple job can turn into a major difugulty in a big hurry. Be prepared for the unexpected any time you start to do anything to it until you have worked your way completely thru it.

 

Here's some more good ones related to the starter ground. To improve ease of access to the starter I took the liberty of using a pair of aviation tin snips and cutting the inner fender wall up along the seam and merely rolling it up an out of the way to have a direct view of the starter. When I lifted the fuel lines that reside there from their clamps, I found them to be totally corroded. The second picture shows my new ground connection to the frame. I used a dremel deburring tip to abrade the frame to bare metal for an intimate ground lug connection.

Many of you may think I butchered the inner fender wall, but I like the direct access it provides to both the starter and the exhaust manifold to y-pipe flange which required a new gasket to take care of an exhaust leak. The last pic is the replacement starter I bought that is now sitting on my garage shelf since the original problem was the ground, not a bad starter.

I started off trying to replace the starter and ended up replacing the entire fuel lines from tank to engine bay.

Upon completion, the fender wall folded neatly back into place. Redneck engineering at it's finest.

 

hey... no spark .....plugs look horrible......but not wet...black crusty...plug wires are going too .....

 

Advanced
Evaporative
Loss

It is a emissions thing, it collects gas vapors from the fuel system and re-routes them back to the gas tank instead of venting them to atmosphere.
www.atlanticbritish.com has a tech section with the VIN# that the AEVAP starts at.
If you have it the price of your fuel pump goes from $100 to $500 because of the extra piping and wire harness.

Here is what the fuel tank recall was about...because it would not properly vent while driving as fuel was removed from the tank and it could not be replaced with air the gas tank (its plastic) would be sucked in.
If you drove long enough eventually the tank could not longer move and then the fuel pump would starve from lack of fuel even though the fuel tank was at least 1/2 full.
Engine would stall from lack of fuel.
Remove gas cap, loud hiss, replace cap and continue driving.
Eventually the plastic tank would crack from the continual reduction/expansion of size.
Once it cracked, usually at the top, it would leak with the possibility of a fire.

When you remove your gas cap you have a hiss, but is it vacuum or release of pressure?
Once way to find out is with smoke.
Go buy a smoke bomb from the party store, do whatever you do to have the gas tank make the noise.
Light the smoke bomb, hold it by the gas cap, remove the cap.
Does the smoke go in or get blown out?

Its not going to run until you replace the plugs and wires.

"Crank" and "turn over" are the same thing.
So telling us that it cranks over but then turns over slow is very confusing.
Not trying to be a jerk, its just hard to understand what exactly you are talking about.

 

THANKS SPIKE !! I know I have language barrier here mostly talk to myself about cars and some of the names I give things just come from learning about tools on my own I guess back in the day of no net or tv for me! Wasnt really supossed to touch tools? so its often "you know the "wheely wrench" looks like this (crazy hand jester). I dont think its rude at all was actually surprised someone didn't ask me to clarify things sooner.

Well I guess when i say cranks I mean the nananananaanaannnaa never the SSSWWWING whirrrrrr from the starter completing......

my thoughts were these
1) starter cranks but does no turnover (like with dead bat)
2) starter cranks, but does not catch or turn over (like bad starter teeth)
3) starter cranks , turns over and (engine turns).... but no start (as failed combustion?) -

But i see now why im confusing.... starter crank = engine turnover

Set me strait PLEASE !! I need it! Want it! I'll even print it so I will remember

this rover has only had that sound like it wanted to start maybe 4 times since ive been trying always sound deadish after key turned once or twice this is new bat.....reading 12.8 when key off- I am wondering still about 100amp ALT fuse on 3 day wait to get-

trying to find electrical troubleshooting manual......if someone knows where to download that would be cool....The rave manual seems to keep telling me to look somewhere else for my engine the overhaul manual was not very helpful for troubleshooting .....

AEL understood now to an extent.....Mine has AEL - charcoal purge canister and that bit right? Round one ....tried to test purge valve I don't think its working gonna test again was getting dark

Today:
CEL still doesn't go off
Could not blow nor suck air through vacuum tube connected to regulator...good sign

I have no spark at my plugs or coils......new plugs and wires goin on in the AM - not expecting much from this though....except to eliminate them from question/they are needed for certain

From rave sfi pages have come to suspect crankshaft sensor
or ECM - if, and, or, buts totally welcomed

Can ecm be unplugged to reset? Cant find now but somewhere in this forum someone said a guy had unplugged his for an hour came back and started right up? Also read that unplugging it means trip to the dealer as well as replacing it does......is this true or not ......RAVE does not say that at all ....just says to replace........guy at advance says you order them with your vin info and they are programmed when sent......yada yada yada -who to believe, feels like the wheel of fortune sometimes.

let me know what you think About this new Discovery LOL.....about the spark and coils.....I doubt all 4 coils would go out at once but stranger things have happened...how do you test them? lead me to the pages about it though if its in the rave..Im starting to think my download is corrupted or incomplete I have come to belive I have SFI 4.0 V8 AEL from inside engine compartment and manual....Thank You ',)

 

What part of Florida are you in?

 

hey cosmic, Im in pcola, thanks for the pics of the starter area and work you did ......very helpful....indeed .....going to check this out more today for sure....also going to test for a battery drain, and replace plugs and wires.....



Spike , just to confirm if I attempt to start with cap on once very lil to no pressure reaches the fuel rail / after a few attempts NO gas AT ALL and when the cap is loosened air is sucked into the tank - The smoke and decreasing pressure at the rail seem to confirm this...

 

Just want to caution you about a few things before you waste tons of money and loads of time.

Before you go messing with or even thinking about the ECM you should eliminate all the simple things that it most likely need anyway.

Putting new plugs and high quality spark plug wires is an excellent place to start.

If you are not aware of some of the specialized Rover parts houses you should look at their websites. From my personal experience, I prefer Rovers North as my first choice of any part I may need for my Discovery. Their only line of business is Land Rovers and I believe they are the most comprehensive supplier of Land Rover parts. They support all the LR lines, even the old Series trucks. They recently acquired a ton of parts from Land Rover North America when LR decided to no longer offer support and was in the process of destroying their remaining inventory. Rovers North stepped in and acquired all the remaining inventory to continue their support of our vehicles. I know of no other supplier that has gone to such measures. When LR wanted a fortune for a front brake line, RN decided to fab their own and made one for me personally for the grand total of $13. I call that excellent customer service. Their website has great illustrated parts breakdowns that you can scan to see what parts are where. I use that in accord with the RAVE when I encounter a new problem. When I have a Rover question, I call them and discuss it with them. They have always provided me with excellent support, even if I am not ordering right then. They gladly answer my questions and usually have everything I need in stock at a fair price and ship same day if you call early enough. They have always come thru for me.

Avoid advice from places like Advanced Auto, Auto Zone and all other chain type mass suppliers if you want dependable answers and the best parts. If you are in a crunch or it is a common part, proceed at your own risk. I avoid parts made in China and other such places.

Work your way thru each system and see what is good, what is really bad and get familar with the condition of your vehicle.

Buy a good creeper and a good light if you don't already have one. Also some good heavy duty jack stands. Get underneath the beast and personally examine and inspect everything you can lay your eyes on. Take pics while you are doing it.

I printout whatever section of the RAVE that applies to what I am doing. There are also other websites that have fantastic write-ups for a variety of tasks you may encounter on your Discovery. I use these printed items like a work order, marking it up as need with additional info like wrench sizes and so forth.

When I finish a task, I sign and date the printout and file it in my completed binder as a record of what I have done. I started keeping the receipts for parts along with this as well.

There are also a few great people and salvage yards where you can get a good deal on used Rover parts. One I have used was Will Tillery, the Rover Guy. Good price on solid used parts.

With that said, good luck on your adventures. It sounds like you are quite a girl with an interesting collection of vehicles already. Keep us posted on your findings.

 

One other caution, make sure you don't end up dumping a lot of raw gas into the engine with your repeated attempts at starting the engine or you will ruin your cats. There was some detailed info recently on this subject.

 

can anyone confirm that my thinking that.....with cap open and pressure to the rail......after trying to start many (3-4) times plugs should be wet when removed IF there is no spark and IF gas is actually getting past the injectors?

Thanks.....