97' Disco turns, no start,low fuel pressure,new pump
#52
Argh!!!
Hi everybody, disco running great for days and then took her on the highway stopped many times over 80miles no problems......then stopped and would not start.....no sound from fuel pump now....can anyone identify the relays located under the dash on the passenger side..... interior.....one is visibly sparking when key is turned.....is this normal?? also just would really like to know what all of these are and can not find any info as to their purpose. I am speaking of the yellow, green and black harness connectors.....thanks opening up pump housing to check in mean time......
yes i have spark.....also have new fuel multifunction relay......but am wondering if it is the problem why it would be going on its third one since these problems began??
yes i have spark.....also have new fuel multifunction relay......but am wondering if it is the problem why it would be going on its third one since these problems began??
#54
X2 - also, if this is the third, I would suggest checking the ground that is right next to it. If not properly grounded, you may be just blowing them as you put them in.
There are 2 on mine, the primary relay and the fuel pump relay. Since the relays are pretty cheap, I would replace both and check the ground.
Just my $.02
Chris
There are 2 on mine, the primary relay and the fuel pump relay. Since the relays are pretty cheap, I would replace both and check the ground.
Just my $.02
Chris
#55
Wow
ok bet this is rare ......using KISS the last thing that I remembered seeing that was odd was a loose tip on the plug end at the number 1 plug.....tightened it no others were loose ....after driving at highway speeds the other day it seems all 8 plug tips had become extremely loose and the pump was pumping just hardly at all .....fixed plug tips with loc-tite and it started right up weird.....next plugs will not have screw off tips!!
#57
I must agree !!!
Yes Spike I must say this is the first time I have ever had this happen I guess I usually go for pricier plugs .....just wasnt sure how much MORE money I would have to spend to get running ....
bought E3's now.....they do not require gap and tip ends do not screw off.....gonna wait till the brakes and bearings get here
I wanted to share this though - when the tips had loosened...I was throwing 2 codes
P0420 & P0430
both are low catalyst efficiency codes - thrown no doubt due to fuel being exhausted in an unburned state - I will post this on another thread also ....as in all my searching I could not find anyone who reported this solution for these codes..............and yes they are gone
bought E3's now.....they do not require gap and tip ends do not screw off.....gonna wait till the brakes and bearings get here
I wanted to share this though - when the tips had loosened...I was throwing 2 codes
P0420 & P0430
both are low catalyst efficiency codes - thrown no doubt due to fuel being exhausted in an unburned state - I will post this on another thread also ....as in all my searching I could not find anyone who reported this solution for these codes..............and yes they are gone
#58
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Pittsburgh PA suburbs.
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Glad to hear abvout the progress you have made so far.
I also had an issue with my 97 that every once in a while, when you would turn the key, it would do absolutely nothing when it got to the start position. The root cause turned out to be excessive corrosion on the starter ground cable where it attaches to the frame. The solution was to merely cut off the lug right at the cable, strip and crimp a new lug on the existing cable. I then took a Dremel deburring tool and abraded the frame to bare metal. I drilled a pilot hole and mounted the new lug with a self drilling body bolt directly to the frame. Problem solved.
I also had an issue with my 97 that every once in a while, when you would turn the key, it would do absolutely nothing when it got to the start position. The root cause turned out to be excessive corrosion on the starter ground cable where it attaches to the frame. The solution was to merely cut off the lug right at the cable, strip and crimp a new lug on the existing cable. I then took a Dremel deburring tool and abraded the frame to bare metal. I drilled a pilot hole and mounted the new lug with a self drilling body bolt directly to the frame. Problem solved.
#59
Thanks for all your helpful information , I have a later 97 as well and when I saw the pictures of your sender unit mine was quite different , I have a metal ring and the lines come out of the sender unit have none of that plastic you have, oh yeah I should have said what is left of the metal. I called the dealer and they told me the recall was done on mine so I was supprised to see the metal band.
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