Wow...that actually looks really straight-forward. Thanks for the info!

 

I think I did the entire job with a phillips screwdriver and 2 line wrenches. Can't remember the size of wrench off the top of my head, but someone here might chime in.

 

Chris-Bob the lines connect a little differently on the AES versions. No need for the 14mm wrenches. It's a push pull configuration similar to what you'll find on DII's.

 

Even easier then!

 

The hardest part about changing my fuel pump was getting the retaining ring off.

 

You think it is confusing now, just be glad you dont own a '99, there were 2 different model Discovery's sold in that year with almost zero interchangeability between the 2.

 

I am looking for a replacement fuel pump for my 98 disco.
This thread recommended the Airtex E3270.
Ebay does not have my disco under "compatible" vehicles
Airtex website gave me the E8388M model, is this the one you were mentioning?

 

the E3270 is not the "correct" pump for this truck. If you want to do it this way, use that pump. If you want a bolt in solution, you'll have to pay more.

 

Sort of........
Land Rover wants you to buy the entire pump assembly. On an EVAP vehicle its pretty darn expensive.
The entire assembly (usually) isn't the part that goes bad. Usually its just the pump itself, which is what the Airtex is. The actual pumps look IDENTICAL. The plug on the pumps is IDENTICAL. The only part that has to be changed is the fuel lines. You have to replace the flexible "straw" with fuel injection line and a couple clamps. It really is just that easy and as "bolt in" and is "correct".

Its like if the muffler on your truck goes bad. Is it "correct" to have a new one welded in? I would say so, but Land Rover would say the "correct" way to do it is to buy this.
http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/NTC7426K
Both are "correct", but why spend more money on parts that aren't actually broken and don't need to be replaced?

 

Usually, but not always.

When I went in to replace the pump on my AEL D1, I found the plastic around both the input-output nozzles was cracked pretty bad.

Because of that, I opted to replace the whole assembly.