98 not getting warm enough
#11
Sounds like a stuck open T-stat. At least its better than a stuck closed one.
Siphon some coolant out of the radiator into a bucket and you'll avoid a lot of spillage when you pull the T-stat.
I'd go with the 180* one. These aging cooling systems could use a little advantage.
Siphon some coolant out of the radiator into a bucket and you'll avoid a lot of spillage when you pull the T-stat.
I'd go with the 180* one. These aging cooling systems could use a little advantage.
I forgot to ask if there is a drain tap on the radiator bottom or if sucking coolent from the top is the easiest way to lower the level.
Went by an O'Reilly's yesterday and picked up a 180 degree non-locking T-stat with a bleed hole and giggle pin; Box says Murray Ultra 15358 made in Israel. Their next choice was a 195 degree; seemed safer to go cooler than OEM rather than hotter, but I'll check it in a pan first to see where it actually opens.
I bought a generic chevy engine T-stat gasket to see if it can be made to fit because the one they show for both a 98 and a 96 Disco was a large one with 5 or 6 holes around the center opening. Got to take swmbo to the doctor today, but will try to check out the T-stat tomorrow.
#12
No radiator drain. Its easier and creates less mess to siphon from the top rather than drain out the lower radiator hose.
I forgot to ask if there is a drain tap on the radiator bottom or if sucking coolent from the top is the easiest way to lower the level.
Went by an O'Reilly's yesterday and picked up a 180 degree non-locking T-stat with a bleed hole and giggle pin; Box says Murray Ultra 15358 made in Israel. Their next choice was a 195 degree; seemed safer to go cooler than OEM rather than hotter, but I'll check it in a pan first to see where it actually opens.
I bought a generic chevy engine T-stat gasket to see if it can be made to fit because the one they show for both a 98 and a 96 Disco was a large one with 5 or 6 holes around the center opening. Got to take swmbo to the doctor today, but will try to check out the T-stat tomorrow.
Went by an O'Reilly's yesterday and picked up a 180 degree non-locking T-stat with a bleed hole and giggle pin; Box says Murray Ultra 15358 made in Israel. Their next choice was a 195 degree; seemed safer to go cooler than OEM rather than hotter, but I'll check it in a pan first to see where it actually opens.
I bought a generic chevy engine T-stat gasket to see if it can be made to fit because the one they show for both a 98 and a 96 Disco was a large one with 5 or 6 holes around the center opening. Got to take swmbo to the doctor today, but will try to check out the T-stat tomorrow.
#13
OEM tstat is fully open by 88C/190F.
apparently, UK stats lists temp when fully open, US ones when they start to open. so a stant/motorad/whatever 180F stat is correct for OEM. I'm running a genuine LR 88C one, for no reason other than to keep it working as it was designed (and it was only 6 or 7 bucks). it's been cooler now since summer is over, but i've yet to see anything above 188-190F according to my gauge.
apparently, UK stats lists temp when fully open, US ones when they start to open. so a stant/motorad/whatever 180F stat is correct for OEM. I'm running a genuine LR 88C one, for no reason other than to keep it working as it was designed (and it was only 6 or 7 bucks). it's been cooler now since summer is over, but i've yet to see anything above 188-190F according to my gauge.
#14
Hey, I'm just curious if other people's gauges display 'roughly' correctly, or if the needle is off? On mine, the vehicle temp is correct but the needle sits about 1/2 way up the scale when warm. It would seem to me that it would be more correct if it were at about 2/3 to 3/4 up the scale based on my other vehicles.
What are you guys experiencing?
What are you guys experiencing?
#15
Hey, I'm just curious if other people's gauges display 'roughly' correctly, or if the needle is off? On mine, the vehicle temp is correct but the needle sits about 1/2 way up the scale when warm. It would seem to me that it would be more correct if it were at about 2/3 to 3/4 up the scale based on my other vehicles.
What are you guys experiencing?
What are you guys experiencing?
#16
#17
OEM tstat is fully open by 88C/190F.
apparently, UK stats lists temp when fully open, US ones when they start to open. so a stant/motorad/whatever 180F stat is correct for OEM. I'm running a genuine LR 88C one, for no reason other than to keep it working as it was designed (and it was only 6 or 7 bucks). it's been cooler now since summer is over, but i've yet to see anything above 188-190F according to my gauge.
apparently, UK stats lists temp when fully open, US ones when they start to open. so a stant/motorad/whatever 180F stat is correct for OEM. I'm running a genuine LR 88C one, for no reason other than to keep it working as it was designed (and it was only 6 or 7 bucks). it's been cooler now since summer is over, but i've yet to see anything above 188-190F according to my gauge.
I saw today that Partsgeek carries a proper 88C T-stat and also the correct metal gasket (like the one that was on mine with the old 195 F T-stat that didn't close all the way). If I ever need to change T-stats again I'll go that route. I just hope 180 is not too low for the bottom of the operating range.
BTW, I was getting 95 to 105 F at the cabin heater vents with the engine warm and the heater ***** to full heat; sound about right? And it still threw codes P1313 and P1314 climbing a steep hill; guess cleaning the throttle body, MAF, and plenum connections and hoses is next on the list.
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Joseph David
General Range Rover Discussion - Archived
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03-14-2011 04:04 AM