Please help with any ideas. We recently bought a 1999 Land Rover Discovery Series 1 from a private owner it has about 141K miles on it. The guy had owned it about 5 years and said he had to do nothing major to it besides tires, brakes, fan, fan belt, and normal maintenance. It has ran really good the week and a half we have had it. We took it up in the hills a few days ago to play around and went through a pretty big puddle of water and it caused the check engine light to come on. The truck still ran fine we noticed no issues. The next couple days it seemed alittle sluggish but still no real issues. So yesterday we were driving it down the road and it just stalled on us like it was out of gas so we pulled over and it would start again once or twice and just die again. My husband made sure it had plenty of gas which it did. He later took the fuel pump out to make sure it was working and that is working. I am wondering if this can be the crank shaft position sensor I have been reading about all over? It seems like its getting spark just wont turn over. If anyone has any ideas where to start I would appreciate any help at all. Thank you so much.

 

Since the engine is not turning over, it may be a starter problem, check all your electrical connections, try hitting the starter with a hammer while someone turns the key. I assume you checked all your fuses as well. It may not have anything to do with going through a the puddle.

 

thank you for your reply. luckily our neighbor gave us a portable elm 327 scanner to go check the code for the check engine light so hopefully this will tell us what is going on without having to spend money we dontt have guessing.

 

No need to guess.

If the crank shaft position sensor is bad you won't get spark with a plug laying on the manifold connected to a live plug wire.

The water play can sometime get the Engine Computer Unit (ECU) wet, either plugs or circuit board. It is inside a plastic box on the passenger side fenderwall under the hood, in front of the washer fluid container.

There is a test valve on the passenger side fuel rail that looks like a tire valve. Prince Charming can put a tire gauge or borrow a pressure gauge from parts store and put on there, makes 32-34 PSI when key turned to position 2, pump should run for a couple of seconds. Easier that pulling the fuel pump....

 

Maybe you can help answer this one...we connected a OBD II ELM 327 Bluetooth Scanner to it yesterday and it did pull a P1138 Code but I dont think that has anything to do with the problem. Mike put the fuel pump back in and we started it right up, it ran about 10 minutes then died again and would not start. There was something else on the diagnostic report we dont understand and I cannot find anything online. Service $06 - On-Board Monitoring -
Component Id $01 TID $02 - Manufacturer Defined 154 N/A 100 Fail Component Id $02 TID $03 - Manufacturer Defined 300 N/A 50 Fail

Also said on the PID 0x03 Fuel system status Open-loop due to system failure

Does this say anything to you? He is still determined to order a pump but I really dont think thats what it is. Please help.

 

open loop means ECU can't allow O2 sensors to be in control (closed loop), and it is using a default value.

I can't decode your cell phone scanner. You may want to try a free code read at a parts store, but getting there might be a problem.

The fuel pump should make like 32-34 PSI on the passenger side fuel rail test port, looks like a tire valve.

 

Do you need a specialized tool to measure the fuel pressure, or can you just use a tire pressure gauge?

 

Tire pressure OK, and parts stores rent/loan something better.