Discovery I Talk about the Land Rover Discovery Series I within.

Air Box Upgrade

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Old Nov 9, 2011 | 11:42 AM
  #21  
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Well, you were OK until... you started moving more air by the MAF. Now it is gonna whisper sweet electronic nothings in the ear of the ECU, who will adjust the pulse width to the injectors, etc. You'll need some programming, or a "chip". And probably throw codes related to TPS out of range (there too much air coming by here, that dang butterfly must be stuck again, take me to the dealer, I want my momma!)

For a test, take the output hose of the shop vac, and a handy roll of duct tape, and attach to air intake anywhere you like. Turn on shop vac. Who knows, maybe you can peel rubber from all four tires until the end of the extension cord...

Cold air is a plus in older systems, more dense. But ECU is also watching IAT, so that may be adjusted out before you can pop the top on a cool one.
 

Last edited by Savannah Buzz; Nov 9, 2011 at 11:47 AM.
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Old Nov 9, 2011 | 11:51 AM
  #22  
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Damn!!!

And as far as a real redneck trusting anyone to hold his beer......
It would be more like " Let me finish this beer, and Honey grab me another Cold One while I go do this...........Yall step back and watch out!!!!."
 
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Old Nov 9, 2011 | 02:43 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by antichrist
Restriction in flow is directly related to the size of the tubing, so just because it travels a long tube doesn't mean you have less flow.

Danny, if all you want is cooler air, which wouldn't be bad really, you could just pipe your filter box horn to the grill.
The flow thing actually depends on the engine in question. Smaller tubing always means less flow, larger tubing obviously means more, but length does have an effect on some vehicles but to what degree would have to based on testing of that particular engine. Adding a foot won't do anything but I can almost guarantee running 15 feet of tubing to remote mount it in the cab or bed as described in the test will kill something. You have to remember the truck where that idea came from has a rear mounted turbo so moving the air inlet to the bed actually shortens the intake tubing a ton as opposed to piping from the turbo to the factory air box location. My whole thing is the only power to be gained is by scrapping the entire factory set up and using nice smooth tubing to reduce turbulance and a free flowing filter. The main restriction on this system is the inlet to the air box so just extending that to grab cold air won't do anything at all.
 
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Old Nov 9, 2011 | 04:38 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Savannah Buzz
Yes, and elbows can have an impact, to a lesser degree.
Elbows cause a greater degree of restriction, given the same pipe ID. A short radius 3" 'L' will have the same restriction as about 10' of straight pipe.
Originally Posted by Danny Lee 97 Disco
I was looking to improve the quality (cleanliness and coolness) of the everyday air supply to make the best of it in a reasonable fashion.
Then the best thing you can do is fit a properly sized snorkel with a centrifugal precleaner.

Originally Posted by s10lowrider1994
The flow thing actually depends on the engine in question.
Of course. But Danny, as far as I know, has the stock engine so we're talking about a set volumetric efficiency. We're not talking about installing different engines, so what's going to determine it is the size and length of the pipe. A properly designed/sized snorkel, which you were talking about, isn't going to be counter productive just because there's a longer distance for the air to travel. Yes, if you made it the same ID as the small ID of the air-horn, that would be more restrictive. I've never seen one that small on a Land Rover.
 

Last edited by antichrist; Nov 9, 2011 at 04:46 PM.
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Old Nov 9, 2011 | 05:10 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by antichrist
Then the best thing you can do is fit a properly sized snorkel with a centrifugal precleaner.
Do you have any product suggestions?
 
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Old Nov 9, 2011 | 08:49 PM
  #26  
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Have you guys seriously forgotten about me and all the stupid stuff I did!

I did a ram/cold air intake a cold air intake with come filter and a snorkel. Power wise don't expect to feel anything. I did notice mpg at first with the come filter. Would I waste my time? No. It got great gas mileage for a little bit then it suddenly was gone.. Dunno why
 
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Old Nov 9, 2011 | 10:01 PM
  #27  
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Probably oiled rag air filter made a micro fine layer of oil on MAF sensor wires, which then added on a little dust, and then with that small change in the air flow metering, the mixture was cranked up by the ECU.... no good deed goes unpunished.
 
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Old Nov 9, 2011 | 10:33 PM
  #28  
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I did remember you Spence. All I am saying is that my existing air filter was pretty nasty from the condition of that engine bay, which I did clean up a major degree.

But I was thinking about removing the little trumpet, and just doing a simple larger curved tube and routing it either toward the grill area, or possibly toward that front driver's fender or back toward the area right in front of the windshield, near the windhield heater connectors that just lay there unused. (I took mine out). That hole could be enlarged and some type of scoop rigged up there possibly.

I would like a good snorkel, just do not have the big bucks and do not really need the water crossing ability that much. But it is good to see the interaction between the members.
 
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Old Nov 9, 2011 | 10:57 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Danny Lee 97 Disco
I did remember you Spence. All I am saying is that my existing air filter was pretty nasty from the condition of that engine bay, which I did clean up a major degree.

But I was thinking about removing the little trumpet, and just doing a simple larger curved tube and routing it either toward the grill area, or possibly toward that front driver's fender or back toward the area right in front of the windshield, near the windhield heater connectors that just lay there unused. (I took mine out). That hole could be enlarged and some type of scoop rigged up there possibly.

I would like a good snorkel, just do not have the big bucks and do not really need the water crossing ability that much. But it is good to see the interaction between the members.
i used dryer duct, worked perfectly, scangauge showed definite decrease in intake temp but no power or mpg increase

i made my snorkle for what 30$ and it looked damn good. if you look you can find my measurements, i just brought the paper to a muffler shop and bam.

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there i found it for you, dont mind the temp pre cleaner..

and then i sunk her
 
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Old Nov 9, 2011 | 11:47 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by antichrist
Elbows cause a greater degree of restriction, given the same pipe ID. A short radius 3" 'L' will have the same restriction as about 10' of straight pipe.
Then the best thing you can do is fit a properly sized snorkel with a centrifugal precleaner.

Of course. But Danny, as far as I know, has the stock engine so we're talking about a set volumetric efficiency. We're not talking about installing different engines, so what's going to determine it is the size and length of the pipe. A properly designed/sized snorkel, which you were talking about, isn't going to be counter productive just because there's a longer distance for the air to travel. Yes, if you made it the same ID as the small ID of the air-horn, that would be more restrictive. I've never seen one that small on a Land Rover.
Maybe counter productive wasnt the thing to use. All I'm saying is that a snorkel is useless unless he's putting it on simply to cross water. There's no need to hack up the body just to try and get cooler air. There is no power to be gained from a snorkel, that's not the intent of the design. IAT will certainly drop but I'd bet other than the temp reading there is nothing else to be gained. We're talking about a motor that makes 182hp so any difference at all performance wise will still be trivial at best.

If he simply wants a little better gas mileage and maybe something that sounds like it makes a little more power, modding the air box, tubing and changing to a more free flowing filter will do the trick.

The whole cold air thing gets blown out of proportion anyway, folks think they are going to get a 20% increase in power by simply configuring the air intake to grab air that is said to be "colder". The truth is when you install a CAI on an otherwise stock vehicle, the hp gains you may see have nothing to do with the air and everything to do with how less restrictive the new system is.

I wont say colder air temps dont make a difference because they do, but not on everyday vehicles. When I used to drag race I loved watching my ET drop as the night air rolled in. Everyone's car seemed to pick up just a bit when the sun went down and the night fell. My problem with this is that with a vehicle making over 1200hp, the difference 50 degree night ait made over the daytime temps was only around 1/10 of a second in ET which equates to around 10-15hp. Sounds like a lot but 1200hp is a far cry from 182hp. Do you see what I'm getting at?
 
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