Was afraid of that when I was doing some more searching last night and came across several things where people either said don't if you don't have to remove it, or if you do then replace the cats/whole Y pipe at the same time. So far I just pulled the nuts off so can always put em back on, and do the pipe in spring since the cats for sure need replaced :P. Was just thinking it would make putting the threaded rods I got to use instead of the bolts easier, but honestly they shouldn't be too hard to do anyway.

 

So I was able to go out and get a tiny bit done today, before I noticed something and it kinda killed progress. I pulled the CKP cover off, unplugged wire, and cut up by where I soldered it back together on top side of motor. Partly did this because I wanted to test the wires I had upgraded to see if maybe one was bad/etc, and because it was almost 2' too long. I also was able to get the threaded rods in where the bolts go, and the CKP will go in fine, same with cover. Couldn't get them all the way in due to needing a pair of vice grips or something to tighten the rest of the way down. Anyway back to the wire, while trying to test it and having a heck of a time getting a consistent reading on multimeter I noticed something that made me think, what if this is why it's being a butt. Right by the plug for the CKP the wires are bare up to the point that I put shrink on, and it appears the liquid tape that I put on there did not work and had just flaked/crumbled off. So I pulled crimps from housing, ran into the odd crimps they use while trying to remove the crimps from wire, and cussed a little. Anyway long story short I was able to find 2 other connectors from the spare front loom I bought ages ago that will work on the CKP, and will be soldering it all up and what not on Monday, and hopefully it will just fire right up. Will let you all know what happens, and have a great weekend

 

Sorry for delay, but last few days have been not the best for getting anything done. Got out today and soldered the new plug/wires for CKP up and tested it, slowish crank but no fire. So I went and put in the new CKP I ordered, tried it again, faster crank, but no fire. Did a spark test on both sides and nada. So I am not fully sure that there isn't a issue with the coil packs, I know the tests seemed ok, but I dunno, I did also test the alarm system. Locked and unlocked with key about 20 times, tried a testing method I found in the RAVE, but it didn't do what it was supposed to. Will post a snip of the test at the end. Anyway tested the alarm and it locked and blinked fine, though the alarm status light on dash did have a rapid 3 blink but eventually just went to a steady slower 1 blink. Also armed the alarm with the passenger door not fully closed so not locked, and opened it, alarm went off fine until key was put in the drivers door and unlocked.

Don't have a fob programed so can't do anything with that. I did notice something odd, and not sure what it might mean, but when I was trying to start the engine while it was cranking the CEL would stay on, and only just barely look like it sort of was flickering, but never went off. Not sure if that is important or not. Anyway sadly no real progress other than determining what it most likely isn't :S. Almost forgot, is it possible that the module/box on the back of the fuse box could be what is causing it to not want to fire? I ask this as I think I remember reading somewhere about moisture and that part being a problem, and it for sure has had moisture in it. Anyway hope you have a great weekend.


The test for alarm system from RAVE I tried.

 

There is a test for if the coils are getting a signal. Put one lead of a voltmeter or even a test light on the signal wire of the coils (not the red wires), other lead to ground. The meter should bounce between battery voltage and zero while cranking (or the test light blink on and off). If not being commanded to start, then voltage will stay solid at battery voltage (light will stay on). If the voltage is bouncing, but no spark, then bad coil (or wire or plug). I suspect you are not getting a signal to command a spark.

I don't know about the anti-theft system because it has not been an issue for me, even though the side lights don't flash anymore when I lock it up, like they used to. My understanding is the vehicle will not crank if the anti-theft is activated.

 

So I went up to do the test, as had to deal with replacing a bathroom faucet Sat., I had to unplug all the plug wires so I could move the coil pack to where I could get to them with the test light. Had my mother as the key turner, and when cranking the light did blink barely, but something stranger happened, the coils were arcing slightly. So I plugged the plug wires back in with it sitting on top the plenum/throttle body cover, and went to do the test again. First crank, prob 1 second after starting it fired right up so I had her shut it off, and proceeded to test each wire, shutting it off when it was actually starting. Well the light blinked barely on each, and it started up on each test also. I am not sure as to what is up other than perhaps there is a wire that is partly broken/etc where the coil pack plugs in, and it is possible that when installing or uninstalling the pack it sometimes gets moved to where it won't work correctly. Honestly never did get around to really fixing where it got partly melted from when it caught fire, so wouldn't honestly surprise me if something was wonky right there, and that was all it was. Anyway going to include the pics I took today of the coil pack wires, and the plug on the loom. I did find a plug that is just like it on the donor loom I have but wire colors are different, as they are all white with colored stripes on them, but honestly not even sure what model the donor came off of. All I do know is it's got a MFR for the fuel pump and stuff like my Disco(96) has, but my mothers (95) doesn't.


Plugs look like hell, but still snap together fine.

 

All right! That's progress. Good for you keeping after it!

Barely blinking light is normal because the pulses are really short time.

 

Cool, at least I think we have found the problem, now to try to see if I can't get it fixed. I did notice when I brought the pack down to try to fix wires/plug that there was a bit of black stuff down in the coils where wires go. So I took some q tips and 91% iso and cleaned em out. May not get it all done today as I have to mess with starter on Frontier, but will let ya know . Also should prob change title from mystery battery drain, to mystery battery drain and not wanting to fire :P.

 

So I went up and took the tape off the loom end for the coil pack wiring, and it turns out the wires I didn't know what they went to cause they had same plug but were white with colored stripes are the wires that go to the coil pack on the loom side. So that will be a easy fix, and I went and checked for another plug I could use to replace the slightly melted one on on the wires that connect directly to coil pack but no luck. Was looking online and found a few used kinda rusty looking coil packs on ebay for under $50, and they had wires. So I picked the best looking one for $40 bucks and bought it. So it will be a little bit before it gets here, and then I can swap the wires out. Will let y'all know when it gets here and such.

 

Good find!

 

Sorry for the delay, as had to wait for ages for spare coil pack to get here, and it's been doing nothing but rain, and then about 1' of snow overnight so not really much has happened, but wanted to keep you all updated.

Thanks, though after how crap FedEx shipping was, and how bleh the seller was to deal with I think I would have been better off paying the extra 10 bucks for a slightly better, and closer one :P. So I got the spare pack finally and got the wires off, put the tinned copper braiding over it, as well as the heat shield stuff tonight. Though the heat shield braiding didn't work the greatest so had to use a bit of electrical tape to keep it all in place. Weather is supposed to be off and on snow/rain for next few days so going to try for Tues. to get the new end on the engine loom soldered on, and will let y'all know how it goes.