I sent my computer and alarm box to logan_gibson and he checked them out, my alarm box (the green one) was scrap so he found me a replacement and set up the computer/alarm to work. I had shut off the anti-theft stuff as living in a small town, it will probably never be used. Since I put it all back in, have never had an issue with it. that was over 4 years ago and still working great!!

 

i just got back from out of town and after 3 days it only went from 12.2v to 12.02v. I'm gonna clean the grounds and xall it a win

 

Did that at one point, and it wouldn't even turn over. A little later today going to go out and pull it so I can open it up and check it out inside since weather may behave enough for a little bit.

Is that a member here on the forums? Got a new CKP on the way and should be here Saturday, so going to give that a shot, and recheck the wiring as it's possible when I soldered the plug on it didn't get entirely connected. Soldering while laying down isn't something I am really any good with yet, or when I upgraded the wire for CKP I made it a bit too long, and it's causing a issue. Though that is something I will look into either way as I have opened up main computer and it looks fine, but the interior has had leaking issues in the past from a aftermarket windshield leaking from PO so the alarm box might be bad.

Awesome, glad you found the issue with your battery drain and got it dealt with. Mine appears to be something on the WLift ECU that my mom fixed the solder joints. Though what on it is a mystery to us both as none of the flows appear to be connecting where they shouldn't or joining joints together where they shouldn't be. Haven't tested it with multitmeter, but with the WLift ECU out of her 95 V8i it doesn't drain the battery, just too bad the boards are same, but components on the board are slightly different. I have the original WLift ECU that came in the car in box of spares, gonna pull it out and see if I can't try the solder fix for it and see what happens then.

Thank you all for the suggestions and information and help so far I truly appreciate it, as I have worked on cars with computers and such a little bit, mostly just my Disco, and a 02 Frontier, and 03 Pathfinder. But most of my wrench turning has been on late 80s or older rigs. So I find myself constantly learning new stuff, or being really confused a lot. Hope you all had a Merry Christmas/Happy Holidays, and will update what I find out after parts get here, and am able to give it a shot.

 

https://landroverforums.com/forum/me..._gibson-66795/
I think he is still around.

 

Thanks, if after I try the new CKP that should be here next week and check wiring again I will try contacting them. So I went out yesterday and was able to get the alarm box out, well mostly in one piece as someone had over tightened the rear nut, and I couldn't get it to loosen, so I tried to rotate it just a tiny bit and heard a snapping of plastic and it just came off. Looks like the area that the stud goes through on the shell was already cracked/damaged so the little bit of trying to rotate to get the nut to loosen a little finished it off. Not a big deal as I can always move it to another mounting location if I need to. Brought it inside and after fighting with those clips finally got it opened up and gave it a good inspection. I couldn't see anything wrong with it, so I asked my mother to look as she used to do micro soldering with electron microscopes for a living. She said it looked fine, nothing looked burned/bad, but that where she used to work (a place called Litton Guidance and Control Systems) that quite a few of the solder joints would have been rejected by QC, but they weren't bad or wouldn't be a problem. So visually it looks fine, but can't say if maybe a part is internally bad or not so going to assume for now that it's working right.

Once the new CKP gets here going to go out and drop the exhaust on that side, and give it a try, and re-inspect/test the wiring, and will update once I have. My informed delivery from USPS says it should be here Mon., but it's a coin toss if it actually will or if Tuesday lol. Hope you all have a great weekend.

 

So forgot to mention that I did notice a little damp looking/darker spots on the floor mats in front so it looks like the windshield is up to it's old tricks again, but that is a easy band aid for now fix. Threw a tarp over it and put a little heater in on low so it should be fine for now.

Saturday the new plug tester I ordered partly due to needing one I knew worked, and because new one does coil on testing, and Nissan loves those :S got here, and today the new CKP, and manifold to exhaust gasket set got here. Tomorrow if the weather permits I am going to go out, test spark just in case, and if needed drop exhaust and put in new CKP and test. Also got to thinking that perhaps when I upgraded the wiring for the CKP that I may have made it a little too long, so going to go trim it down as well. Since I think right now it's about 2' or more, longer than it actually needs to be, and easy enough to trim down, and solder back together. Will update on any progress, or lack of with that, and hope you all have a happy new year's eve, and hope that people don't go too overboard with fireworks where y'all live :P.

Forgot to mention also decided to order M5 x 0.8 x 60mm studs to replace the CKP cover bolts, but couldn't find any that would work, so going with a fully threaded rod that I will cut down, and serrated flange nuts. That way if I ever need to do the CKP after all this I won't have to fight with the long bolts, and limited space to turn a ratchet, also won't have to try to get the CKP and cover in place and everything lined up just right so maybe they will thread in.

 

Just a little update to keep you all informed, thanks to my back being a lil bugger yesterday I wasn't able to get out and do anything, and weather is saying rain straight through till Tuesday of next week. Though luckily that will also mean the studs and nuts I ordered to redo the CKP bolt setup will be on hand when weather decides to behave. Hope you all had a great evening last night, and happy new year.

 

Hey all just wanted to say am still here, and sadly haven't been able to get out to work on it as of yet. First weather was being, well Oregon weather :P, and then as it starts to lessen with the rain I picked up a nasty little bug of some sort. Going to try to get out there maybe tomorrow but most likely will be Tues., or Wed of next week. Hope you all are doing well.

 

Hey all sorry for the long delay, bout 90% over whatever it was that I had caught previously, and decided if I wait for weather to be above 40f and not foggy I will be doing it in spring, so went up and took the bolts off the exhaust to manifold connection on drivers side. Tried to drop it down as much as possible, but it didn't want to budge more than a tiny bit, and decided to check the service manual. Well other than it saying with assistance to remove it after undoing both sides I couldn't find anything, and google search was not very helpful. So am wondering if I actually have to undo both sides or if it's possible to lower just the one side? Will do some more searching, and worse case will undo both sides since I have the gasket & stud/nut kit for them. Hope you all are doing well.

 

Both sides need to be loosened in order to move the Y-pipe, since these are not flexible connections. Very solid connections to the engine manifolds do not flex. I know you are trying to gain some space to work on the CKS (crank sensor), but maybe try it without moving the Y-pipe. It's all about getting just the right angle at it. Maybe remove a tire instead. Glad you are feeling well enough to plug away at it.