Brake work
#12
All the bench bleeding kit is is a couple fitting that screw into the MC and a couple flexible hoses that you put right back into the resevoir. You can mount the MC in the truck and hook the bleeder hoses up and just fill the resovoir up put in the bleeder hoses and pump away till theres no more air bubbles then reatatch the metal lines then bleed the system.
#13
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Pittsburgh PA suburbs.
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I would also advise against the slotted drilled rotors, I bought the Proline Rotors and Pads set from RN for roughly 100 bucks per axle. They work fine. The pads are Mintex brand, the rotors are solid (not internally vented as my original equipment was), al,so got their calipers for the rear as mine were rusted badly.
You probably have similar salted roads and snowy winter up there like we have in Pittsburgh area. With the 2 inch lift, I think the stainless steel brqided lines would be fine, they supposedly give better braking because they do not expand like rubber does.
My front hard tubing brake lines were in sad shape as well and I got replacements from RN for something like 13 bucks each, they were preformed but still required minor "adjustment". Places like Pep Boys do sell straight brake lines in a variety of lengthes pretty cheap, that is what the other guy was referring to. Not a bad way to go, just be careful handing forminmg them not to kink them. I used a large socket to form turns when I did my replacement fuel lines with the 5/16 steel tubing. Antichrist showed a set of pliers made to form tubing that would be nice to have.
I admire your tenacity, just be a little more thorough determing what is wrong before you go throwing lots of money into a repair (new master cylinder versus a ruptured brake line).
I know trying to maintain one of these is a major chore on a limited budget. I do it on Social Security and a tiny pension. But all that effort helps keep me young and active as well.
I spent most of the last two days working on mine. Replaced the heater hoses, the alternator, and removed the existing rear driveshaft and rotoflex. Getting ready to install the used 98 DI rear driveshaft and four bolt flange I picked up recently. Also replacing a damaged drag link.
This time, before I did anything else, I sprayed most of the engine compartment and the entire underneath with full strength Mean Green, wiped around the engine and under the front with old rags made from my old t shirts and sweats, then hooked a garden hose to my basement deep sink, turned the hot water heater way up, and sprayed the devil out of it with super HOT water and allowed it to dry. Removed the battery and grill and washed everywhere. I was tired of caked up dirt and grease falling into my eyes everytime I touched anything underneath. It is amazing how much better it is to work on a cleaned vehicle!!!!
Of course, I have all the time I need, but very tight budget, as I no longer participate in the daily rat race known as WORK. What an adjustment that is. When I need money, I go collect copper, aluminum, and whatever else I can scavenge to sello to the metals recycler and I try to find used parts or great deals instead of paying retail.
You probably have similar salted roads and snowy winter up there like we have in Pittsburgh area. With the 2 inch lift, I think the stainless steel brqided lines would be fine, they supposedly give better braking because they do not expand like rubber does.
My front hard tubing brake lines were in sad shape as well and I got replacements from RN for something like 13 bucks each, they were preformed but still required minor "adjustment". Places like Pep Boys do sell straight brake lines in a variety of lengthes pretty cheap, that is what the other guy was referring to. Not a bad way to go, just be careful handing forminmg them not to kink them. I used a large socket to form turns when I did my replacement fuel lines with the 5/16 steel tubing. Antichrist showed a set of pliers made to form tubing that would be nice to have.
I admire your tenacity, just be a little more thorough determing what is wrong before you go throwing lots of money into a repair (new master cylinder versus a ruptured brake line).
I know trying to maintain one of these is a major chore on a limited budget. I do it on Social Security and a tiny pension. But all that effort helps keep me young and active as well.
I spent most of the last two days working on mine. Replaced the heater hoses, the alternator, and removed the existing rear driveshaft and rotoflex. Getting ready to install the used 98 DI rear driveshaft and four bolt flange I picked up recently. Also replacing a damaged drag link.
This time, before I did anything else, I sprayed most of the engine compartment and the entire underneath with full strength Mean Green, wiped around the engine and under the front with old rags made from my old t shirts and sweats, then hooked a garden hose to my basement deep sink, turned the hot water heater way up, and sprayed the devil out of it with super HOT water and allowed it to dry. Removed the battery and grill and washed everywhere. I was tired of caked up dirt and grease falling into my eyes everytime I touched anything underneath. It is amazing how much better it is to work on a cleaned vehicle!!!!
Of course, I have all the time I need, but very tight budget, as I no longer participate in the daily rat race known as WORK. What an adjustment that is. When I need money, I go collect copper, aluminum, and whatever else I can scavenge to sello to the metals recycler and I try to find used parts or great deals instead of paying retail.
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USMC_Denver
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05-08-2009 12:41 PM