brakes and rotors
#11
08-01-2010, 02:16 PM
I'll throw in my two cents worth. Before you buy, check out Rover's North website. I look at ther webpage and usually call them at the same time so I can ask any questions. They are very helpful. Especially Les and Rob.
I used their Pro Line rotors when I did mine. I did one axle at a time, but I used their package deal, rotors and pads were roughly 100 bucks an axle. I also used the ProLine calipers as I replaced my rear calipers as well when I did the rear axle. f memory serves me correctly, the pads were Mintex.
Also get the fittig kits, which inclde new springs, clips, etc. I also bought new caliper mounting bolts as well. I prefer to ave all new mounting hardware when I do something on mine, since it was manufactured in 96, I dont reuse mounting bolts, nuts, and such if I can get new. Buy PB blaster in bulk and use it liberally on the nuts and bolts.
Also, when doing the brakes on a Discovery, you must remove the hubs to ge the rotors off. So make sure you get all the parts and piees required for the hub removal/ renewal. That means bearings, lock washers, hub seals possibly lock nuts. There is large lock nut that has to be removed as part of that process. So you need the special adapter ( I think it is 32mm).
You will need to either clean and repack your wheel bearings or possibly replace them. So you will need wheel bearing grease. I used the Lucas Red heavy duty grease. And there is also a paper gasket for re-assembly.
Download the RAVE, print the associated pages to use as a work order. There are also a lot of other threads in the archivs as well as write-ups on other sites, so make sure you go into it well prepared or you will wind up needing that one part that you just did not realize you needed.
Be prepared with all new parts, it's a breeze. Jump in ill-prepared, itwill take several days while you wait for something.
I used their Pro Line rotors when I did mine. I did one axle at a time, but I used their package deal, rotors and pads were roughly 100 bucks an axle. I also used the ProLine calipers as I replaced my rear calipers as well when I did the rear axle. f memory serves me correctly, the pads were Mintex.
Also get the fittig kits, which inclde new springs, clips, etc. I also bought new caliper mounting bolts as well. I prefer to ave all new mounting hardware when I do something on mine, since it was manufactured in 96, I dont reuse mounting bolts, nuts, and such if I can get new. Buy PB blaster in bulk and use it liberally on the nuts and bolts.
Also, when doing the brakes on a Discovery, you must remove the hubs to ge the rotors off. So make sure you get all the parts and piees required for the hub removal/ renewal. That means bearings, lock washers, hub seals possibly lock nuts. There is large lock nut that has to be removed as part of that process. So you need the special adapter ( I think it is 32mm).
You will need to either clean and repack your wheel bearings or possibly replace them. So you will need wheel bearing grease. I used the Lucas Red heavy duty grease. And there is also a paper gasket for re-assembly.
Download the RAVE, print the associated pages to use as a work order. There are also a lot of other threads in the archivs as well as write-ups on other sites, so make sure you go into it well prepared or you will wind up needing that one part that you just did not realize you needed.
Be prepared with all new parts, it's a breeze. Jump in ill-prepared, itwill take several days while you wait for something.
The gear lube comes through the axle, past the axle seal and into the hub to lube the bearings.
So as long as the bearings are not contaminated and you keep fresh gear lube in the diffs and keep them full the bearings will in theory last forever.
#12
08-01-2010, 08:28 PM
#13
08-02-2010, 10:05 AM
Baja
I've had good service from Wagner pads and rotors.
The D1 hubs are only lubed from the diff in the rear if you remove the inner oil seal, otherwise you need to pack them with grease.
The same with the fronts, only the gear lube comes from the swivel housing, if you're running gear lube there and have the inner seal removed.
Hub seal to use is RTC3511.
Hub bearings, if you need to replace, are Timken SET37, SKF BR37 or *** KIT38.
The D1 hubs are only lubed from the diff in the rear if you remove the inner oil seal, otherwise you need to pack them with grease.
The same with the fronts, only the gear lube comes from the swivel housing, if you're running gear lube there and have the inner seal removed.
Hub seal to use is RTC3511.
Hub bearings, if you need to replace, are Timken SET37, SKF BR37 or *** KIT38.
#14
08-02-2010, 01:13 PM
#15
08-02-2010, 02:04 PM
Winching
#16
08-02-2010, 03:30 PM
Camel Trophy
Spike is wrong here, just pack them with grease as you normally would. You will get some leakage from the swivel ***** in front if they are filled to the top with gear oil, but the mixture will not hurt anything. You should never clean and not re-pack your bearings.
If you are doing rotors, re-pack your bearings. the RTC3511 is a double lip seal that will keep more moisture out of the bearings if you wade much. It is a better seal than what the normal one is. I just used them on the front for mine. They are holding up great.
Also, the Ferodo kits from ATB are decent. It is what a local shop uses here. The Autozone pads are dirty once broken in. And I will throw in that I still like my EBC's after 18months.
If you are doing rotors, re-pack your bearings. the RTC3511 is a double lip seal that will keep more moisture out of the bearings if you wade much. It is a better seal than what the normal one is. I just used them on the front for mine. They are holding up great.
Also, the Ferodo kits from ATB are decent. It is what a local shop uses here. The Autozone pads are dirty once broken in. And I will throw in that I still like my EBC's after 18months.
#17
08-02-2010, 03:32 PM
Then why is it that my bearings in my rear bub are grease free and oil soaked?
With my bad axle seal if I did not keep the diff right full then the bearings would start to squeak ever so slightly.
These bearings have been in the truck for 20,000 miles and have never been greased, when they were put in they were not greased, they are perfectly clean right now and look brand new, just soaked with oil.
When I pulled the stub axle off of the donor truck the bearings were grease AND oil soaked.
It has been explained to me by a very good mechanic that the oil comes through the axle housing through the stub axle into the hub.
The hub is sealed and there is a seal to prevent the oil from leaking between the stub axle and the hub assembly.
I do need to look at the Rave but looking at everything and taking it all apart and putting it all back together this all looks to be true.
Mixing grease and oil will not hurt anything so if bearings are greased before being put in it def wont hurt.
I am just trying to understand everything.
I need to find my Rave CD.
With my bad axle seal if I did not keep the diff right full then the bearings would start to squeak ever so slightly.
These bearings have been in the truck for 20,000 miles and have never been greased, when they were put in they were not greased, they are perfectly clean right now and look brand new, just soaked with oil.
When I pulled the stub axle off of the donor truck the bearings were grease AND oil soaked.
It has been explained to me by a very good mechanic that the oil comes through the axle housing through the stub axle into the hub.
The hub is sealed and there is a seal to prevent the oil from leaking between the stub axle and the hub assembly.
I do need to look at the Rave but looking at everything and taking it all apart and putting it all back together this all looks to be true.
Mixing grease and oil will not hurt anything so if bearings are greased before being put in it def wont hurt.
I am just trying to understand everything.
I need to find my Rave CD.
#18
08-02-2010, 03:51 PM
Camel Trophy
There is a seal between the axle and the stub. It is called an outer hub/axle shaft seal. If this seal is good, it keeps the oil from entering the stub axle. See #8 on the pic. You will not see this unless you remove the stub axle, but you will tear it if you aren't careful pulling your axle shaft out. There is something broken on your truck... Please edit your earlier post so people don't stop reading there and think they don't need to grease their bearings.
(as stated by a Rover mechanic)
(as stated by a Rover mechanic)
Last edited by okdiscoguy; 08-02-2010 at 03:54 PM.
#19
08-02-2010, 04:20 PM
Recovery Vehicle
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I had a missing left rear seal when I first bought my rover. I bought the inner stub axle seal and cleaned and greased the bearing when I reassembled. As I interpret the rave diagram it is not supposed to have oil in the bearing area. It wears down the seal and in my case I theorized it ate the seal in the gearing assembly. While it appeared ok there was microscopic metal in my diff fluid. I have since cleaned the diff all up and added fresh oil and had no problems since. Since that seal was missing I did have a major diff oil leak right onto my left rear rotor causing a massive brake problem.
I am planning on doing my brakes on the front and rear this winter just for piece of mind and intend to replace all necessary bearings and etc... Love to see what you go with for brake rotors and pads. I am thinking of putting on performance gear. Usually only costs a little more but is always money wll spent.
I am planning on doing my brakes on the front and rear this winter just for piece of mind and intend to replace all necessary bearings and etc... Love to see what you go with for brake rotors and pads. I am thinking of putting on performance gear. Usually only costs a little more but is always money wll spent.
#20
08-02-2010, 05:15 PM
Ok, yes the bearings are supposed to be greased.
Mine are not, never have been since they were replaced 20,000 miles ago.
Here is what they look like.
I had to replace my stub axle because it had a nick in it from when the bearings were replaced the first time and it was tearing up the axle seal causing my leak.
Per the Rover shop manual they are supposed to be greased.
Mine are not, never have been since they were replaced 20,000 miles ago.
Here is what they look like.
I had to replace my stub axle because it had a nick in it from when the bearings were replaced the first time and it was tearing up the axle seal causing my leak.
Per the Rover shop manual they are supposed to be greased.
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