cant get into 4 low
Pictures 4 and 5 in this slide show detail the part that has to rotate to engage the CDL:
http://rides.webshots.com/slideshow/561941781dIDDCp
http://rides.webshots.com/slideshow/561941781dIDDCp
Also, is the light on the dashboard controlled independently of what's actually happening in the gearbox? Because sometimes when I shift into diff-lock it takes a while before the light shows up on the dashboard; likewise the light sometimes stays for a minute after unlocking.
One final question, I always put it into neutral to shift the T-case or lock the CDL, but I sometimes lock the CDL with the vehicle in motion. Is it safe to shift that way?
Gentlemen:
Here is everything you should know about the CDL Linkages in a Discovery I.:
http://www.roversnorth.com/store/c-3...nsmission.aspx
Here is the detailed view:
http://www.roversnorth.com/store/c-3...s-linkage.aspx
Item 39 is the electrical switch that when the diff lock is physically engaged, the plunger on the switch is activated and that turns on the CDL Light on the dash. If you light is not immediate, the plunger is nasty and not functioning smoothly. It is hanging up or something of that nature until the light either comes on or goes off. It is that simple guys. I had to replace mine. So I speak from personal experience.
Item 35 is the actual selector that must physically rotate CCW when viewed from above to physically engage your CDL, this is accomplished by side to side movement of the shifter and that motion being transferred down the linkage to rotate this selector. If you study the RAVE you will see the internal yoke within the T/C.
Luckily for me, I did not have to go internal to the T/C. I did however remove the entire top box and dissassemble, clean and grease it, replace item 26(?), the end piece with the internal splines due to excessive wear on these splines as well as ALL the clevis pins, clips, nuts, bolts, and various other small parts that were caked with a 15 year accumulation of crud due to exposure of these components.
If you want to see detailed photos, click on the album link in my signature. Mine works extremely well after a total teardown and reconditioning as detailed above. It should shift smoothly side to side at any normal speed as long as wheels are not spinning freely. Completely independent of the HI/LOW function of the same shift lever.
Here is everything you should know about the CDL Linkages in a Discovery I.:
http://www.roversnorth.com/store/c-3...nsmission.aspx
Here is the detailed view:
http://www.roversnorth.com/store/c-3...s-linkage.aspx
Item 39 is the electrical switch that when the diff lock is physically engaged, the plunger on the switch is activated and that turns on the CDL Light on the dash. If you light is not immediate, the plunger is nasty and not functioning smoothly. It is hanging up or something of that nature until the light either comes on or goes off. It is that simple guys. I had to replace mine. So I speak from personal experience.
Item 35 is the actual selector that must physically rotate CCW when viewed from above to physically engage your CDL, this is accomplished by side to side movement of the shifter and that motion being transferred down the linkage to rotate this selector. If you study the RAVE you will see the internal yoke within the T/C.
Luckily for me, I did not have to go internal to the T/C. I did however remove the entire top box and dissassemble, clean and grease it, replace item 26(?), the end piece with the internal splines due to excessive wear on these splines as well as ALL the clevis pins, clips, nuts, bolts, and various other small parts that were caked with a 15 year accumulation of crud due to exposure of these components.
If you want to see detailed photos, click on the album link in my signature. Mine works extremely well after a total teardown and reconditioning as detailed above. It should shift smoothly side to side at any normal speed as long as wheels are not spinning freely. Completely independent of the HI/LOW function of the same shift lever.
Last edited by Danny Lee 97 Disco; Feb 4, 2011 at 05:50 PM.
That was the idea, but the plastic was in pretty bad shape and it did not last too long. So right now it is minus a console. I am however taking an old wooden Cutty Sark case from the late 1930's or early 1940's with all the Fancy Lettering on it and converting it to replace the original center console. I have mounted the top from the console on it (rotated 90 degrees so it opens away from driver). I have fixed it such that the seat and window switches will be mounted inside the front half of the box. The rear half has a separate hinged top for the rear seat passengers (my grandkids) to have a place to stash their stuff.
They call it a treasure chest. I thought an old whiskey case with the original lettering referring to Her Highness the Queen and the Royal Bottlers and MADE in SCOTLAND painted on it was pretty cool. It will mount to the metal bracket that support the center console.
Just a little more work to finish on it and install it. Pics will follow.
They call it a treasure chest. I thought an old whiskey case with the original lettering referring to Her Highness the Queen and the Royal Bottlers and MADE in SCOTLAND painted on it was pretty cool. It will mount to the metal bracket that support the center console.
Just a little more work to finish on it and install it. Pics will follow.
Did not mean to rant but I trust some of you appreciated the detailed information since I did go thru it to the Nth degree to get it fully functional again. I got in it two nights ago and thought, hell I have not used it in a few months. I placed my hand on the shifter and gave it a slight nudge toward the driver's seat. It moved over effortlessly and the light immediately engaged, moved it back toward passengers seat, readily moved again with very little effort and the light went right off, worked just like it was new. It basically is new and well lubed with Lucas Red Waterproof Tractor Grease.
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