what is the high end safe temp? I did a 180 stat few days back and while sitting still today with the a/c on the ug was displaying 210 I did look and I have clear flow through rad and condenser can see light through them

 

You would have to believe that since Rover set extra fan to come on at 212 that certainly 210 is not the end of the world. But running warm or hot for longer periods is not good. So did you electric fan come on?

 

just looked, when my a/c is on both fans run

 

On a D1 on with AC, or on at 212.

On a D2, on with AC if truck under certain speed and ambient above certain temp, or on at 212F.

On the D2, the coolant warning light comes on at 284F, "warning - wallet vacuum ahead". On the D1, the temp gauge may not be the digital derived devil of the D2, but it is still pretty vague, I certainly don't consider 235 to be in the middle of the "normal" range.

Pix of D2 with one temp, another D2 with a different temp, same gauge readings, and D1.

A scanner or Ultra Gauge is heap more info than the oem gauge. The great problems with the oem instruments is that with a small problem, which causes modest overheating, you don't know this and drive along in complete bliss listening to the oldies sucked in by the flux capacitor on the radio. By the time the oem gauge rises, you have been slow roasting over hickory coals for thousands of miles in some cases. Combine this with cheap oil, way too long oil change intervals, and aluminum engine then you are deep frying, which is preparing the Rover engine for the recycled life as a cooking pot.

 

I have the ug, guess the only thing left is buy an aluminum rad, maybe even with rodding this one is too far gone

 

My D1 was rodded out at past 170K, made a big difference. $75.

 

ok so this is odd I had the rover running with a/c on and pass wheel on ramp hood up while I unclogged the a/c drain probly half hour, get out and take down off ramp notice 188* wow close the hood and put some things away probly 5 minutes, 210*

now I doubt the ramp under one wheel made a difference

I am wondering if my replacing the missing hood insulation, weather strip on fenders and rear of hood, and installing the filter at rear of hood has sealed all the heat under there and it has nowhere to go and causing my high temps??

 

Unless your rad is so clogged that it is not cooling as well as it should,.- or fan clutch is wimped out and the change in static pressure slows the fan down. Sounds like air flow or clogged rad .

 

the clutch is new from ab like 1 year ago, I have a chevy one laying around guess I could try that

 

I stay around 185 at any speed.Stop and go it will hit about 192.No drive throughs for me as it will hit the 200 to205.I have a rad that I am looking to have rodded out but the new
fan clutch will keep it cool if moving.