Here's the diagram I'm looking at. It seems to me I'll need to get the mud shield off to get to the lower swivel pin, which means I'll need to take apart the whole hub. Basically I should disconnect all steering linkages, drain the swivel, take apart the hub, remove the upper and lower swivel pins, at which point the steering knuckle (swivel pin housing) should be able to come off. Looks like the swivel pin bearings would basically fall out.

I don't see any gasket grease seal at the mating surface of the swivel bearing housing and the swivel pin housing, is that correct?

So parts I need to replace while it's apart are the upper and lower bearings, the lower joint washer, and possibly get a pack of shims in case I need them for setting the preload. I may or may not need to dig in farther to replace all the seals, is that advisable maintenance at this point?

Yes I will do a write-up when I have this figured out...

1. Swivel pin housing
2. Top swivel pin and brake hose bracket
3. Upper and lower swivel pin bearings
4. Shim
5. Retaining plate and washer
6. Oil seal
7. Joint washer
8. Swivel bearing housing
9. Joint washer
10. Lower swivel pin
11. Mud shield bracket
12. Swivel housing inner oil seal

 

That diagram looks pretty straight forward. It's just a shame you need to go through the hub to get there. As far as the seals I would of you could. I've read that when we get up there in mileage and the seals go the swivel pin grease migrates into the diffs or vice versa. You clearly want to keep whatever you put in the swivel housing in there. So if you can. Seals.

 

Agreed, that's the best one I've found so far. There was actually a different diagram I was thinking of that was a little more complex, I'll attach it here. I'll see if there's a way to avoid doing the hub, but from what I saw last night with the mud shield blocking the lower pin I kind of doubt it.

I actually had a problem in the rear axle with migrating grease, on of my hubs was filled with gear oil, and the differential oil came out murky gray from bearing grease. Needless to say I replaced a couple seals and gaskets when I did the rear axle. I may do the same on the front preemptively, it just looks like so much more digging, and I don't have air tools. We shall see.

1. Axle casing
2. Ventilation pipe
3. Axle shaft
4. Wheel studs and hub
5. Stub axle
6. Wheel bearings (2)
7. Inner and outer hub seals
8. Axle shaft seal
9. Hub lock plate,thrust washer and nuts (2)
10. Brake disc
11. Drive flange
12. Shim washer and circlip
13. Dust cap
14. Constant velocity joint/shaft
15. Thrust collar for CV joint
16. Roller bearing
17. Spacer
18. Circlip
19. Bottom swivel taper bearing
20. Top and bottom swivel pins
21. Spherical housing, seal and retainer
22. Swivel housing
23. Constant velocity shaft seal
24. ABS pickup (electrical connection)
25. ’Rialco’ bush ABS

 

Yup. That's the scary one. When I changed my front diff it came out a little silver. But I'm assuming that was 85k miles of seepage so I'm OK with it for now. But I'd like to be preemptive too. God that diagram makes me throw up in my mouth

 

Glad I'm not the only one, lol. It just scared me until I found the other diagram, and realized the hubs are very similar to what I already did on the rear, if not identical. I think if I only had that diagram I would have sat down with colored pencils or crayons and reminisced about kindergarten for a while before attempting any repair.

 

The lower bearing cone will fall out, but the race has to be driven out and the new one pressed or driven in.

That's not exactly the right exploded view (it's the non-ABS), this one shows your parts, the bits that have the red line going to them.

Also, if you're keeping your Rover, do this:
https://landroverforums.com/forum/ge...acement-39705/

 

Thank you, and yes I will take that tip. It certainly did seem like asinine brake line routing on initial inspection. Thank you for the correct diagram also.

 

well, 6 months later, is he still working on it? I have the wobble too, and in my legs also after reading this thread. I think I'll just drive my Disco slower so it won't wobble.
Mine just started the wobbles about a week ago while it was cutting out (I have that under control now thanks to Spike, the VSS). My steering damper was bad, the gromets were almost deteriorated away, real gummy like. I jacked the front up and checked play in the wheels. The left, passenger side, had a little bump play to it. The drivers side, well, I thought it was going to fall off. I took the tyre off, and it rubbed across the dust cover which fell to the ground in a few pieces and with it the keeper and shims off the shaft. The adjusting nut and lock nut were very loose, I mean loose. I tightened all that and went into the other wheel and tightened that one up. I removed and ordered a new steering damper. It drove so much better then I went down a bad road (test driving) and it started. It was better till that road. I rechecked my wheels there's no play what-so-ever. Tires have correct pressure, and have only about 1500 miles on them. I pulled and pushed on everything under the front and see nothing wrong, bushing all look intact. Got my new steering damper on tonight but as I see here that's not going to be a fix. Any help appreciated. It's a 200k vehicle and I want to keep it. The body looks good. Thanks

 

My visits from the Death Wobble were not dampened in any way, the PO had removed the steering damper! Did four rod ends, wheel bearings, a sticking caliper, greased swivels (converted from oil), and popped on a damper after other items were running smooth.

 

I rebuilt the left front swivel ball housing - new bearings and races, new seals, new one-shot grease. The lower swivel pin bearing was shot, or rather I should say the race was. It was visibly out-of-round, oblong and lopsided. After that the shimmy was much faster but still there.

I found that the Panhard rod bushings were also loose. New bushings and new bolts took care of that and the wobble was 99% gone. The only hint of a wobble I ever get is around 70 MPH and it is very faint. I think I can blame my caster angle due to the lift for that, plus the short wheelbase exaggerates things at speed.

The only concern I have is that every few weeks the bolts on my panhard rod loosen up and it starts to clunk driving over bumps, gutters, rocks, etc. at low speeds. When I tighten it up, that all goes away. I'm going to put a locking washer under the nyloc nuts I used and perhaps they will hold better.

Sorry I forgot about this thread, I can post pics later this week if you need me to.