I think you have a sticking injector just by the codes your getting. Over fuels and the computer is trying to compensate both fuel and air. The side of motor with the #1, 3, 5 and 7 cylinder, drivers side I believe. I'd rattle test em. Pain in the butt to remove the rail so you just lift it high enough to pluck the injectors out one at a time. Shake them, if they rattle they're considered good, if one does not it's stuck. That would kill your rpm/power just like your experiencing. I had one full open and it flooded the cylinder, no spark at all. Could smell the fuel. It happened while on the freeway, killed the power big time. Normally you'd get a misfire code as well but if it's just sticking/unsticking then it could pass the rev counts for a misfire code?

 

Thanks, ihscouts--I'll give this a shake and see what happens.

I did find that the vacuum hose that goes from driver side valve cover to the throttle body was basically made out of play dough. Also, the ports that hose was connected two were pretty gummed up with carbon. Cleaned the throttle body fairly well--but didn't really know how to clean the valve cover one--didn't want to accidentally flush all that gunk down into the engine. Replaced that with a piece I had lying around and that eliminated two of my codes--now I just have the P1179 and P1177--those two together make what you suggest about an injector pretty coherent.

Will update. Thanks!

 

Quick update--still haven't had a chance to check the injectors, but replaced vacuum hoses and cleared the codes--stayed off for a day, then came back with P1177, P1448, and a cylinder 1 misfire.

When I was replacing hoses, I noticed that the nipple where the gas tank vacuum hose connects to the charcoal canister is nearly completely broken off. I imagine that is messing with vacuum pressure, which certainly plays into all of this. Anyone have any great tips on how to fix that/find a replacement charcoal canister? I hate to replace the whole part if I don't need to, but at this point, I need to pass emissions pretty soon, so am anxious to get there.

Thanks.

 

If I understand what you are describing, it is your purge valve. A Dorman brand replacement (which also happens to be used on a Kia, can be purchased at Amazon.

 

thanks, WaltNYC--ordered it, and will update when I have it on.

 

Ok, I'm back with an update and still a problem.

Replaced the purge valve and shored up the leaking spot in the charcoal canister. Cleared the codes, and they stayed off and I passed emissions (yay!)

Engine performance was exactly the same, however, and in perfect timing, after getting check, the CEL came back on--this time, it's p1177 and p1179 together.

SO: grabbed a gauge from AZ, and sure enough, pressure at the rail was super low--with key on, engine off--it will eventually make it's way to 19-20 lbs. With engine on, it holds at 15 lbs, and under load it drops below 5.

So: fuel pump?

 

yes. fuel pump. see the write ups in this forum. You can generally get away with just replacing the electric pump and filter/sock for <$40. Airtex 3270.

 

awesome--thanks, esp. for the tip on the airtex. will update when i can.

 

https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...el-pump-53083/

 

Ok--update, and perhaps (hopefully) closure. Just put the airtex in, as well as a new filter. Disco started right up (no hard start, which had become the norm) and ran quite well. No stutter, no hesitation, full power, everything--it runs great. I haven't tested the pressure yet at the rail, but my hunch is that it's normal, based on the way it's running. I'll stop by AZ later and get a gauge just to know what it is.

I guess my only question is, should this correct my crazy fuel trim numbers? They're all over the place (and have been for as long as I've known how to track them). I noticed during the test run today that they were both very negative--bank one hitting -25 a few times, and bank two in the -15-19 range. Or should I start a new thread for that?