Yep, might as well go for it. Transfer Case is 2.4 quarts.

 

Once I pump the oil in, is there anything I should do to see if it works, other than cranking it and letting it run?

Should it be in Park, Neutral or in Drive? Run it through the gears? Will the fluid circulate and loosen up that stuck linkage?

Rob

 

I doesn't start sloshing oil until you get it's guts moving so "Drive" would be my answer. It might help the dog clutches move once it's picked up and flung over them. It's deader than a door nail so what do you have to loose at this point?

 

Well, I believe I have bad news. I couldn't get the inspection cover off without removing the exhaust pipe (something I don't have time to do now), and I was afraid of rounding off those 10mm bolts.

So, I took the drain plug back out with intentions of emptying the case, and I plugged the hole with a rag, while I inspected the plug magnet. I found about a zillion tiny metal particles sticking off of the plug magnet like hairs, plus quite a few 1 to 2mm sized chunks of brass-colored metal, to boot.

I cleaned the plug, put it back in, started and ran the truck for a minute or two, took the plug back out, and got the exact same thing.

Third time being the charm, I repeated the process, and got the really big pieces/chunks of metal. Again.

This, and the fact the high/low lever will not budge (even by whacking it with a hammer), has convinced me the TC has gone to the Happy Hunting Ground.

So, with heavy heart, I've decided to weigh my options of either, a), selling it for a boat anchor on Craigslist, or b), picking up a TC at a local yard (150+ USD is the going price here) and fixing it myself.

Never having done a TC before, can anyone give me an idea of how difficult this would be? I rebuilt several US auto transmissions and V-8 engines, so I have those skilz, but I'm not sure what's involved in a TC swap....can anyone give me a quick opinion/run-down?

Rob

 

Less difficult than the tranny or motor. It's fairly easy in good weather, it's more time consuming than difficult.

Do you have a copy of the Rave (service manual)?

 

Tc will be cheaper at a u pull, just be sure it has oil in it suck to buy a bad one

I do not recall exhaust in my way of that cover unless I used a wrench

I think d2 also fits just be sure it has the part to lock the tc some newer did not

 

Yeah, I downloaded a copy last year; I'm assuming it has a step-by-step process for removal? I was hoping to avoid having to pull the trans completely out of the truck....

Tom...my local yard has 4 of them (D1's), and I thought I'd go ahead and pull the inspection plate on any particular one that I settled on, just to be safe.

The 3 upper-most plate bolts are under the exhaust pipe; normally, a boxed end wench would go in the space, but as I was trying to remove those three, the heads started to round-off, so I stopped....I figure a socket would be the best means of removal, but right now, the pipe is in the way.

Rob

 

Use a 6pt box wrench.

 

No trans removal required, just an unbolting from the extension housing on the transmission.

 

Bring a sawzall and cut the pipe out of the way, or spend the time to disconnect at the header manifold back. It will be a lot easier. Be careful, the T-case is heavy. I have seen guys take a rear bench seat and put it under trans/tcase and let it fall, that way you don't damage it.

Good luck