So here is where I eat crow.....
my all aluminum rad I got a yr ago - just started leaking
JUNK

 

Oh noooo! I installed a Nissens 64029 from Rockauto that I got for I think $290 or so. Pretty sure it has aluminum guts and plastic tanks. Seemed pretty sturdy on install - only trouble was that the clip on the bottom that the fan cowling slots into was bent closed on one side so I had to pry that open to slide the cowling into it. Dinged my fins up in a couple places, but nothing major. Put in new o-rings for the oil cooler lines. I've heard of these plastic-tanked ones leaking in cold weather, but the good news is I live in Florida A note to anyone doing their radiator - a package of those soft plastic tapered "corks" in assorted sizes is an absolute life-saver for this job. You can use them to plug up the oil cooler lines (and the nipples on the radiator!).

 

My aluminum with pladtic bowels is still good been several years

 

TomR - could you note the exact model/brand you got if you recall?

why do I keep hearing people say to stay away from the plastic tank version?

 

People seem to have problems with them leaking in cold weather - it's no mystery that plastic is less durable than the stock copper/brass, my bet is that they're prone to crack and weep, especially in the rigors of cold weather. Personally I disregarded these warnings and installed a plastic-tanked one as I'm in FL.

 

The cheap-o plastic tank radiators have the same problem that the cheap-o all aluminum rads have.... undersized internal oil coolers.
The increased heat causes the bond/weld between the tanks and core to get cooked and then separate = LEAK.

IMHO if you are going to go with a plastic tank radiator your best bet for quality is a NISSENS 64029

 

so it looks like -
all aluminum radiators on eBay etc. are crap
the aluminum with plastic tanks are iffy but cheap
you can recore the original for $ ????
or purchase the $600 copper brass (real OEM) type

awesome!

well I just dropped the original radiator off at the only radiator shop in the city - he told me it won't be cheap cuz its copper - we'll see

 

I thought you only had the Aluminum Rad, I didn't know you still had the OE Rad...a RE-CORE is always my FIRST CHOICE!
The tanks are way thicker and the oil coolers are large and brass. It makes all the difference.
Expect the cost to be about $250 - $350 and if your rad guy is good it's 100% worth it.

Anytime I'm at a pick&pull I will always buy clean (near mint tanks) OE rads just for spares. Which reminds me I'm out.

 

yeah I didn't toss the original radiator 'just in case' - and it looks like this is that case.

thats good info on the internal cooler tanks.

honestly $250 would be a dream! they are supposed to call me tmrw.
As far as if they are good - I bought a 3 core radiator for a 87 toyota pickup over 20 yrs ago from them and they are still the same people in the same place. So hopefully that counts for something.

 

It sounds like you will be in good shape with your Rad Shop.
They are really a dying breed due to regulations and CheapA$$ imported rads.

I'll give you one headsup re: a re-cored rad and it was a lesson I learned from a friend who had to the hard way. BEFORE you install the Rad flush the core with water and blow the oil coolers out with air. Then fill the oil coolers with ATF and Engine oil (they don't hold much) and let it drain out. This will add all of 20 minutes extra to the install.

I know this is overkill and I've never had a problem, but the issue my friend had was the Rad Shop sandblasted the tanks and some sand got into the coolers. More in the AT Cooler and it was not good. So it's worth taking the few minutes to be 100% you are free of problems.