Also, when you are unbolting the rotors from the hub, you can use one of the wheels laying upside down as a holding fixture. Lay the hub in the removed wheel to hold it while you break the torque on the bolts securing the rotors.

I didn't have a bearing packer handy, so I used a big piece of Saran Wrap, slapped a handful of bearing grease in it, folded it over the bearing and pressed the grease in with my fingers. Worked pretty good and kept the greade from getting all over my hands. I used the Lucas Red Tractor Grease.

Tom, thanks for the great pics, where did you get the RTC3511's?

I tried to find a brass hammer and drift, could not find them anywhere these days. My local hardware store could only find a brass dreift in a gun supply catalog.

Slotting the brackett is an excellent idea. Thanks for all the good info.

 

As an aside, I live in Michigan's Upper Peninsula and the terrain and conditions are harsh. Any other recommendations for parts considering the snow/salt, mud, sand and rock the LR will be subjected to on a regular basis,

 

Based upon your harsh environment, don't waste money on slotted or drilled rotors, just more places to trap and hold grit.

I live in Pittsburgh PA suburbs, similar harsh winter environments. Mine had lots of corrosion issues with bolts, brake lines, even the rear calipers. I bought new rear calipers from RN, their ProLine parts. These had a nice goldish looking finish that has held up nicely.

One good things for cleaning and preserving steel from corrosion is oil. I worked on a variety of military contracts in the past. Replacement Parts that are prone to corrosion are packaged in a preservation manner which is basically soaking them in oil and wrapping them good. Oil does an excellent job cleaning and preserving metals.

I even read somewhere that one fellow puts his used motor oil in a spray bottle and coats the underside of his Rover to prevent corrosion. A light coaing of oil is an excellect preservative.

Another great corrosion preventative is Never-Seize. A light coating on the wheel lugs will prevent your lug nuts from seizing up on you. If the shiny metal caps screw up on your lug nuts, purchase the solid lug nuts that were used on the earlier Range Rovers. They are the same size as those on a DI and you will never again have a problem with the made for looks Stainless Caps coming loose or deforming. I bought an entire set of 20 from a West Coast Import Recycler for something like 75 bucks including shipping to PA from CA. I would avoid the capped lug nuts if yours go bad.

I also bought a 4 way lug wrench at Advance Auto for the added leverage. Do not let Tire Monkey's get at them with their Pneumatic Hammer tools. That is what usually destroys the shiny caps and makes it hell to reuse them once they get damaged. Lots of people have found that out the hard way. Once damaged, your stock lug wrench will no longer fit on them and they can be hell to remove.

Be careful who you allow to do anything on your Rover! The place that used to do work on my wife's Explorer ruined all 20 of my lug nuts doing an annual state inspection! I no longer go to that shop! I do everything I possibly can myself. If I am not doing it myself, I am there watching it or they do not touch it.

 

All the usual suspects should have them.
I usually stock up on them from the UK, but I've also bought them from DAP and Rovers North.

 

Excellent pictorial, reference, part sources and hands on knowledge Tom.

 

Looks like he bashed that index finger a little bit too.

With the harsher environment, you should go ahead and clean it good and check for rust under the rear cargo area pad and look under the carpets and around the doors for rusted areas that you may need to sddress before next winter.

Clean it good underneath, address what you find and then try some sort of preservative.

You will be dismayed with how many little places there are in the floor pan for ingress of water. Seems the LR liked to leave a lot of holes in the underbelly from manufacturing that either have a plastic plug, a piece of adhesive or a little dab of sealant that no longer seals. I have all my carpets out and there are multiple places where daylight comes in thru the floorpan. Plus those pads just act as giant sponges and hold water against the steel floor pans. Lift your carpets and see. My camera is dead currently or I would provide some pics. Maybe some else has some.

 

Thanks. They are actually from photos taken when I was converting my D1 to D90 fronts. At the same time I installed all new calipers, new master cylinder and new stainless braided flex lines.

This is the first photo in the series.

 

I wasn't able to come up with AB through a Google search - can you provide more information?

 

AB = Atlantic British

 

Thanks!!