sorry it just baffles me that the gauge was showing fine on the old pump and now with the new nothing and the connectors at the pump are clean as u can get i was amazed at how clean the entire pump area was after seeing all the pics.. guess i got super lucky..

 

It would be the 4 pin connector. Did you check the one in the wheel well?

 

I'll bet the float fell off. I put an allmakes pump in my 1996 (roversnorth "proline" brand)... and the float wouldn't stay attached, the plastic wasn't molded quite correctly. I ended up reusing the plastic from the old fuel level sender with the electronics from the new one.

 

checked the connector on the drivers side wheel well it looked good but i cleaned it anyways but still no fuel reading i aslo changed the pump relay at the same time as the pump could that have anything to do with it? i pulled the pump again yesterday to make sure i didnt miss any rubberbands or anything and i looks good... any other ideas??

 

While the pump is out, turn the key on and manually raise and lower the float to see if the gauge moves. If it doesn't I'm guessing a bad pump. (one way to test is to hood an ohmmeter to the leads for the gauge and move the float, if the resistance changes then the gauge is probably ok and the problem lies elsewhere. (or you could plug your old pump in, put it back in the tank and see if the gauge still works like it did before the pump replacement.

 

It is hard to say if the low fuel light works, the float is there, and your connections are clean.

Are you 100% sure the connections are clean?

I only ask cause I put a new pump in along with a new wire harness (old one was shot). After install, everything seemed to work ok except for the fact that after putting in 10 gal of gas, the low light was still on and the gauge was on about 1/4 tank.

About a month later I was messing with the harness, trying to secure it so it didnt touch the muffler (plastic tie mounts broke). After doing so, the fuel pump wouldnt come on. Troubleshot all kinds of things...still no pumping.

Finally, checked continuity on the wires of the harness. Open circuit. I checked the male connector pins really closely and saw that the two ground pins were covered in a light layer of corrosion. Used a tiny dremel sander to make em shiny again. Pump and sender worked fine after that.

 

does anybody have a pic of the location of the connector in the wheel well as the one i cleaned looks like it might go to the brake lights but it was the only connector i could find in the wheel well i cleaned it really good with rubbing alcohol and some gritty paper and still no reading so maybe im cleaning the wrong one? also i switched relays just to try it and when i did the wipers turned on by themselves and popped a fuse put the other new relay back in and now keeps popping the wiper fuse.. im lost..lol

 

rubbing alcohol and some gritty paper = not good. RA is mostly water. WD40 or even PB Blaster or CRC contact cleaner is much more compatible cleaner.

when i did the wipers turned on by themselves = must be shorted somewhere

The rear wipers and the rear windshield deicer can short around the door area, trace the bundles that pass into the rear door for damage.

 

I can't even get the weather stripping out to remove the carpet. I'm screwed! The more I have to work on this thing the more regretful I am for owning it.

 

Very typical of new owners. Welcome to the Wonderful World of Discovery Recovery. It is a Terrible Addiction to Love a Green Ovaled Monster.

If you really feel bad, dump it quick, it will only get much worse until it totally consumes all your time and disposable income.

Have fun!