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I upgraded my brakes in the summer of 2018, and also replaced my 7-year old braided lines with a fresh set. You will need to bend your own lines on the fronts for sure. Sorry, but I don't have any closeup photos of the custom lines. My suggestion is to not cheap out on the line bender. A better quality bender that can easily make tight bends will make it much easier. My method was to mark the areas to bend one at a time from the top connection (to the flex line) down to the bottom. I botched a couple lines, but they are fairly inexpensive.
I did attach a photo of one of the fronts all done below. One thing I still have yet to solve is getting my pedal pressure back to what I would expect. I bled all four corners in the recommended order, and even invested in a nice vacuum bleeder that attaches to a compressor. Pedal still has more travel that I like, but the truck stops fine, and much better than it used to with original front calipers/rotors. If I pump it once before stopping, the pedal does get firmer, so either there is still air in the lines (doubtful after the amount of tries I made!) or I need to replace the 22-year-old master cylinder. I'll probably just do that this summer anyway. I am curious to see what your experience with the ultimate firmness/travel of your brake pedal once you are finished with the job.
Thank you for the heads up, help, and your time. I appreciate it!
I'm headed to NAPA today to grab some copper nickel tubing for the hard lines and a bender.
Once i have completed, I'll post pics and my experiences to add to our collective hive knowledge.
About the mushy pedal, I wonder if a Defender booster and mc would help AND the proportioning valve may need replacing. I checked the part numbers and they're different between the Disco and Defender for the booster and mc. I would bet they're different because of the fluid volume. Just tossing this out there. I never liked my Disco's brakes, had zero feel through the pedal. They felt like wet tree bark and about as useful.
Regarding the M10 fittings... are there two different types of fittings for the ends of each side of the hard line (one fitting that connects to the caliper and a different fitting that connects to the brake line)?
i know this may be trivial to some, but I have never done this before and just want to cover my behind
Thanks!
Last edited by archaeology_student; Jan 20, 2019 at 11:23 PM.
About the mushy pedal, I wonder if a Defender booster and mc would help AND the proportioning valve may need replacing. I checked the part numbers and they're different between the Disco and Defender for the booster and mc. I would bet they're different because of the fluid volume. Just tossing this out there. I never liked my Disco's brakes, had zero feel through the pedal. They felt like wet tree bark and about as useful.
I thought that might be the case given the Defender front calipers are larger and would theoretically require a larger volume of fluid to move the larger pistons. I haven't researched whether a Defender booster/MC setup would be a straight bolt-on upgrade though. Unfamiliar with the proportioning valve, though a quick Google search and now I know where it is, thanks. My original brakes (even after a refresh 7 years ago) were never great either.
Regarding the M10 fittings... are there two different types of fittings for the ends of each side of the hard line (one fitting that connects to the caliper and a different fitting that connects to the brake line)?
i know this may be trivial to some, but I have never done this before and just want to cover my behind
Well, i finally got around to getting one side done. The problem i ran in to was that the splines do not stick out for the circlip (so as in the picture above, my splines don't stick out).
The vented disc and whole assembly has been properly fitted, but the splines not being able to be clipped seems troublesome before fitting the little cap on the end.
Would someone with experience tell me what I may have done wrong?
Thank you
Last edited by archaeology_student; Apr 14, 2019 at 09:29 AM.
Be sure both inner and outer bearing races are seated properly.
Check that the inner grease seal is in correctly with the lip facing towards the stub axle, and that it's seated 4mm into the hub.
This may sound nuts but when you are assembling the hub check that you don't have an extra Lock or Spacing Washer in there.
Adjust the bearings/end float.
Before you install the drive member make sure there's no extra gasket or RTV on the flange.
Once the drive member is installed (minus 1 bolt) use the bolt like in your pic to pull the axle as far outward to clear the groove for the circlip.
And YES you need the circlip!
Good Luck!
Last edited by OverRover; Apr 14, 2019 at 07:15 PM.
Take one of the hub flange bolts and thread it into the end of the halfshaft a few turns. Use you hand or a pair of view grips to grip the bolt head and pull the halfshaft out. It should move out far enough to get the circlip on.
