Must be HOT in the summers & COLD in the winters without that insulation. WHY? Headliners are too easy.

 

Is tha very difficult to replace? Do I have to tear down the head liner??? Ect

 

Not difficult to replace at all. You can buy the complete rail with all the components for around $139. However if one rail is damged the other is sure to be as well. I do not recommend changing out only one rail. The tolerance difference will vary greatly and it will cause binding and further damage to the older rail. I have made a new master of this block. A master is a pre-made part which mimics the characteristics and near design of another component. The master then gets molded and can be cast with new material. My master of the block is not identicle to the one already installed. I have made some dramatic changes to it, mostly in durability and strength. The old block is made of composite metal. The new block is made of TASK high impact urethane. This plastic is stronger than the composite and can handle the load to prevent bending and breaking. Also useing plastic greatly enhances the ability to create this part faster and cheaper. Right now I have the curbside (passenger) block master made and the mold. I'm currently building the roadside (drivers) block master. Should be finnished this week. I have changed the square rollers to a wheel design. The square cause too much friction and binding.

 

So my front sun roof will pop up but will not slide back. Any ideas on that?

 

Medic08. Pop up meaning you can push it by hand or the motor only pops it up? If it will not slide forward or backwards than it most likely is the 2/16 of plastic some genious desided was enough to use on the spring gear to block catch. Either way your sunroof doesn't work. You have two options. Leave it and never use it or fix it. If you decide to fix it. AB sells new rails for $139. I make and sell individual components seperately or as a kit.

 

The motor will pop it up but it will not slide back.

 

Medic: Definitly something binding. I'm betting on the main block being bent. You still want to sell me those sensor's? We can work a trade if you want.

 

Interesting stuff you're doing there.

I can't deal with more leaks. The truck will get blasted by heat constantly and I'll end up having to replace the seals every 3 years. I think I have to seal it up with some marine caulk or something. Maybe keep the draining system is that's possible. I didn't want to do it but I think I have to.

 

slanginsanjuan thanks for your interest. Well I have noticed that most interior leaks occur at the drainage tube to sunroof frame. The tubes are simply pushed onto a male fitting. This mail fitting is glued into place on the sunroof frame. Unfortunetly the glue fails and the fitting becomes loose. Instead of water running down the drainage tube, it runs into your interior. Most upper sunroof frames are securely fastened to the roof with a tight seal. Easy fix really, just apply a nice coating of silicone sealant to the fittings.

 

LRD2 -

We have intense heat and sun. But, you think I can waterproof the seals successfully, even with a 15 yr old truck? If so, is it just the outside strips or am I looking at something deeper in your opinion? I have the headliner and everything out now. I'd like it to be the last time if possible. You're pulling me back from the edge.