Dreaded Code P1178 = Overhaul
Josh,
Do not jump the shark and just throw parts at it man. The fuel pump should come on and run for 5 seconds when the key is witched to position 2 whether engines is running or not. So put a fuel pressure guage on the schrader valve and have some turn the key to on (pos 2) but not crank (pos 3).
If fuel filter is not fresh, change it, they are cheap.
Put a meter on the battery and see what it reads. Often times the grounds corrode, especially where the starter ground connects to the frame. Same for battery connections both ground side and power at the main fuse block.
Get a scan Guage and you can see actual signals if you do get it to run.
As far as spark plug wires, I recently bought the NGK's on Amazon.com they are less than 40 bucks and you can get free shipping, also got the K&N Gold oil filter and a Wix Air Filter. I use the cheap Champion Coppers.
I had the P1178 and the above along with cleaning the MAF once fixed that problem.
Also make sure the two small vacumn hoses from valve covers to the intake are new and the oil separator is clean before you go dumping tons of stuff into it.
Do not jump the shark and just throw parts at it man. The fuel pump should come on and run for 5 seconds when the key is witched to position 2 whether engines is running or not. So put a fuel pressure guage on the schrader valve and have some turn the key to on (pos 2) but not crank (pos 3).
If fuel filter is not fresh, change it, they are cheap.
Put a meter on the battery and see what it reads. Often times the grounds corrode, especially where the starter ground connects to the frame. Same for battery connections both ground side and power at the main fuse block.
Get a scan Guage and you can see actual signals if you do get it to run.
As far as spark plug wires, I recently bought the NGK's on Amazon.com they are less than 40 bucks and you can get free shipping, also got the K&N Gold oil filter and a Wix Air Filter. I use the cheap Champion Coppers.
I had the P1178 and the above along with cleaning the MAF once fixed that problem.
Also make sure the two small vacumn hoses from valve covers to the intake are new and the oil separator is clean before you go dumping tons of stuff into it.
Haha yeah after going back and reading it appears like I'm about to go crazy...which is half true. lol. I'm going to go down the list first and not just going to start throwing money at it. First is the battery, then intake bolts and gasket. I'm trying to find a local with a MAF I can pop on real quick to eliminate that. (if anyone in the dallas area would like to help there is a 6 pack in it for you). Then I will move to fuel pressure test.
I was just wanting a list of the preferred brands and locations if I keep having to move on to the next problem. Hopefully it is a somewhat simple fix.
I was just wanting a list of the preferred brands and locations if I keep having to move on to the next problem. Hopefully it is a somewhat simple fix.


