Fuse below dash is good. Have ~10.5 V at both front switches ( more like 11 V at both rear switches, although the readings are doubtless lowered by my random grounding of the electric meter against the carpetless floor... .

_both_ front windows went out at same time

 

Do they move at all? And up/down action or nada.

 

Total zer0 for both front windows.
Luckily they were up already !
Both rears are working normally.

 

I've had just about every door panel off mine in the last 2 years for either window regulator, window motor, or door lock actuator. Fairly common I believe. When I first bought mine the driver side window wouldn't work, bought the cheap one of ebay from Brit Parts($40). Worked for about 6 months then stopped working. Drove around like that for a few months them my passenger side regulator broke, window all the way down and wouldn't stay up. Went to the junk yards and pulled 2 used motors and back in business every since. Fairly easy to do, there are a few videos on youtube. I practiced on the ones in the junkyard just so I wouldn't tear mine up. I would say first time will take a few hours after that its a 30-45 minute repair. I think I paid about $20 each in the junkyard.

 

Both front windows went totally dead at the same time

 

 

 

re-soldering at ECU is an an idea from someone else.

Anyone done that ? Tips ?

 

Yes, there is a youtube video. A guy with one arm can do it (literally, watch the vid). Sort of a pain in the *** to get the board in/out, but not difficult.

The same solder point which was bad in the video failed on mine.

I recommend a little dielectric grease on the connector when reinstalling.

 

I have done the soldering the ECU 3 times now. last time was for the front pass window. before that it was for the rear windows. When you pull the board and take a look, you can see the failed solder joint. I finally got a used board so I ca just swap it out and fix the broken one later and put it on the shelf