bloody rovers........

fitted oil pressure gauge the other day, had 20 psi hot at 100k or 2400 rpm, should have 40psi, so I thought about and figured something had to be donw,a call to the friendly LRS supplier to order bearings (just in case) i pull oil pump out and check it, and cause the gear did not want to come out i managed to wreck it, the pump looked to be in good condition before i got to it, no grooves or any other "issues" ,so another call the the friendly LRS supplier to order a oil pump gear set, i pull the pants off (the rover) and pull a big end, looked average, so pull another, that looked more copper than white metal, so go thru all of them and 3 are knackered, only the top shells i must add, the journals looked and felt mint, so chucked the set of big ends bearings in, so while there i pull the main caps, front sweet couple marks no worries, number 2 copper, #3 copper, in fact the rest were all showing copper. there was very light scoring on one of the journals and due to the fact i don't want to pull the motor i polished that journal in place, and to be honest took all of 5 mins with fine paper and 4 indexs of cranks, cannot feel the scoring , so fingers crossed, some one had been in there before me and had only fitted half the thrust face bearings on number 3 journal, i thru it back together and reassembled oil pump, put a drive shaft on the oil pump spindle and primed the system, now have 50 psi cold, best before was 30, shoved the dizzy back in the hole and cranked it over, oil light goes of instantly, took about 5 secs before, it did not want to start so have dizzy 180 deg out, had enough for the night and will re insert dizzy tomorrow and try to start it.

Cheers to Rex, good service!!!!!

Cheers

Pedronz

 

Kudos again How about including some pix of your work?

 

Good job. Did you do the rear main bearing? How did you pull it?

 

I'd like to know this too because when I looked into it, it looked like a royal PITA.

 

picking up a expensive digital camera covered in oil aint a good idea, and if i left it in the shed it would likely be dropped in the oil!!

pedronz

 

yup did all the bearings, managed to remove the rear cap by screwing bolts into the oil pan bolt hole and gently levered the cap up and out of position, you have to remove the flywheel/flexiplate cover first though.

then using a very small screw drive tap the shell to move bearing shell out and around the crank journal, dont hit or lever off the crank!! when you put the new bearing in place, carefully file a small chamfer or radius or rather break the edge, then lube the face and slide the new one into place, (the fine chamfer will help prevent the bearing scoring the bearing bore.) new t seals in place, lube the seals as well, slide the cap back into place, i then used a bent bit of wire to push the crank main seal into place, then nipped up the cap, and then torqued as per book, it does how ever remain to be seen if the rear main seal will play ball, if it leaks then it motor or g/box out to replace it,

Cheers

Pedronz

 

Ohhh you have a 94 Disco. Pre-cross-bolted bearing caps. They make it much more of a PITA. You'd at least have to remove the starter for example.

Anyways, good job!

 

well drove it around today, oil pressure is 35psi at 2500 rpm, missing about 5, but a heap better than 10 or 15 psi.... the rear main seal is playing ball so will go for longer drive tomorrow and see what eventuates,

cheers

Pedronz

 

update

well have driven the vehicle for about 300 ks since the new bearings, oil is spotless no metallics, oil pressure is good, i forgot to mention i made the oil pressure reilef adjustable, tweaked that up and now got just over 40 psi, hot at 2500 rpm .

but had another issue raise it head, the ecu light came on after about 5-10mins driving, and then goes out after another 5-10 mns, so goole searches later i decieded the oxy sensors were playing up, so put the ecu into non cat mode via the tune resistor, a drive later, sorted, I thought, drove it to work and it came on again, but i noticed as it was warming up the light came on and then went off as it warmed up. so i got hold of LRS and asked for the price of a temp sensor, $13 bux, so bugger the meter, replace it!!! so new sensor arrived, fitted it to the motor and go for decent drive, the light now stays off, put the cat tune back on via tune resistor and all is well, no idiot lights and truck runs well.

so hopefully truck has had it rebellion for the year and will give no more grief for the 2500 k trip it is about to do for me.!!!!

did i mention no oil leaks......... not sure how long that will last.

i reckon if you put all the rovers and thier assoc oil leaks togeter in the world, then the exxon valdez would look like a drop....

cheers

Pedronz