If your idle remains high the variable registers will need to be reset. Autologic and T4 are the only two service diagnostic systems capable of accessing the LR code locked ECU's. Testbooks are specific to the Rovers, Autologic is used by many independent foreign auto garages as it can access a range of vehicles. A reset is pretty cheap as hookups go, besides you'll get a really good idea of what other needs your motor might need in the future.

When the Thing first came out I wanted one. I remember the tv commercials. I can't believe you found enough parts to mend the broken one you bought. I haven't seen a Thing in many years. Old VW's are popular here too, whole bunch of enthusiasts up here. I can snag Bugs all day up here, old ones, before the Super Beetles. People stash vehicles in barns up here and they sit unmolested until they are part of a will.

Landy's are similar to a GM. The original 3.5L is closely based off a 63 Buick motor. The rights to that design where bought by BL. Not many changes other than a block bottom redesign/stiffening and 4 bolt/cross bolted mains on the 4.0L which is actually still a 3.9 but they needed an identifier to differentiate the updated block with. This is a basic pushrod motor that's been around since hay was invented.

 

Ugh on the software. I don't trust anyone around here, were is a good place to get the soft ware?
Thing parts are really down to one shop but parts are also traided on Vw Samba. I have a nice real german army radio car thing. Need to do some maintenance on and sell for some big bucks. Dont want too but it is a 4 seater and I have 8 cars and 3 little kids so something must go!

 

No software available. It's a diagnostic system (hardware/software) and it's very expensive, only affordable if your going to make money with it ya know. It's the only "gotcha" of owning these things and you've already found it.

You only need to get it reset if the idle will not lower. If you get the part and it does what it's supposed to (575 - 675 rpm warm idle, no stalls) then all is well, no need for a hookup.

 

Well I just picked up the idle part, 2 cans of sea foam and a obd2 reader, I figure I will do sea foam first before I change the idle control valve solenoid the high rpm will help me suck the foam in!

 

Sea foam will really throw out a smoke screen. My idle went up to over3k. Filled up the gas tank and dropped in a bottle of sea foam in the tank. Drove home and my idle went back to 1700. I guess it's software time ;(

 

Try the trick again. This time wait until you hear the plunger then shut it off instead of waiting a few seconds.

 

1400 rpm idle. Oh well. Dealer time. Hate taking a $1000 vehicle to the dealer. Probably cost 1/10 the cost of the vehicle

 

Thought, since the new idle control valve is acting like the old one someone mentioned a water sensor that could also be the problem?

 

How many times did you try the trick? What your doing is training the ECU, it came down some. When you put it gear what is the rpms?

 

Hmm I will keep working on it I did not know it could keep learning