First day on the road .... Not a good day
#61
from the RAVE shop manual brake section -
I would be tempted to use some heavy wall rubber hose and clamps. It is just vacuum, not very high, but you don't want wimpy hose that would be sucked flat when vac goes high (let off gas) just as you are about to apply brakes and avoid a Jeep.
The vacuum necessary to operate the brake servo on
petrol engine vehicles is provided by the engine inlet
manifold. During normal operation of the brakes only a
small volume of air is drawn from the servo and into
the inlet manifold or plenum chamber. However any
excessive air leaks due to damage in the brake servo
system or manifold hose connection, will effect the
mixture strength and ECM fuelling calculations on
engines equipped with an MFI system.petrol engine vehicles is provided by the engine inlet
manifold. During normal operation of the brakes only a
small volume of air is drawn from the servo and into
the inlet manifold or plenum chamber. However any
excessive air leaks due to damage in the brake servo
system or manifold hose connection, will effect the
mixture strength and ECM fuelling calculations on
I would be tempted to use some heavy wall rubber hose and clamps. It is just vacuum, not very high, but you don't want wimpy hose that would be sucked flat when vac goes high (let off gas) just as you are about to apply brakes and avoid a Jeep.
#62
Are you ever going to hook up to scanner or are you just going to continue this speculative and useless dialogue. You can't guess what's wrong with your rig, no one on this forum can magically tell you what the hell your rig is doing... Do some actual diagnostic work already!
A vacuum leak causing numbers like you have is pretty unlikely, imo.
You engine operation is controlled by a computer, that computer is influenced by electronic sensors, knowing the state and operation of those sensors is vital. It's the first gawdamned thing you should do in troubleshooting this issue. And it's the easiest. Plug it in and read! Stop throwing darts already dude!
I'd like to add that this thread has some great tech contributions, thanks guys, but seriously dude, get on with it.
A vacuum leak causing numbers like you have is pretty unlikely, imo.
You engine operation is controlled by a computer, that computer is influenced by electronic sensors, knowing the state and operation of those sensors is vital. It's the first gawdamned thing you should do in troubleshooting this issue. And it's the easiest. Plug it in and read! Stop throwing darts already dude!
I'd like to add that this thread has some great tech contributions, thanks guys, but seriously dude, get on with it.
#63
I just went out and looked at mine after reading this thread. That line is very similar to the one from the purge valve. Do not really care for that type of plastic tubing.
You could call Rovers North and see what they can offer as far as a new one.
Almost everytime you have to do some type of emergency fix like that, it is difficult to get really good dependable long term results. Then again there is always the Gorilla Brand Duct Tape route.
Vacumn leaks will give you some challenging situations on these beasts.
Todd does make a good point that specific readings are important to track down the true cause/effect of the problem. So many times, you are chasing symptoms and can get off on a tangent.
I am glad that so may people are getting detailed scanners so we can all further our understanding of what values we should have on specific parameters. I need to get a ScanGuage myself.
You could call Rovers North and see what they can offer as far as a new one.
Almost everytime you have to do some type of emergency fix like that, it is difficult to get really good dependable long term results. Then again there is always the Gorilla Brand Duct Tape route.
Vacumn leaks will give you some challenging situations on these beasts.
Todd does make a good point that specific readings are important to track down the true cause/effect of the problem. So many times, you are chasing symptoms and can get off on a tangent.
I am glad that so may people are getting detailed scanners so we can all further our understanding of what values we should have on specific parameters. I need to get a ScanGuage myself.
Last edited by Danny Lee 97 Disco; 05-19-2012 at 12:43 PM.
#64
As I said in a previous post, I have ordered a scanner and will keep posted when the results come in - I am sorry my posts bother you but I think the idea that it is impossible to do diagnostics on a vehicle without a gauge sold on some ghetto website is abit out of line ... I agree that this is a useful tool (and that is why I ordered one) and I agree with your comment that these trucks have computers (that relies on sensors) and therefore reading these sensors is a useful diagnostic tool ... I also agree that a vacuum leak is highly unlikely to be causing all my problems .. That being said it is something that is likely contributing to the problems at hand ....
A result of one of my other useless diagnostic tests from this morning which I assume you won't care about since it didn't come from an UltraGuage:
Did a coolant system bleed and after about 60-70 mins (per Spike's guidance), I was still getting a condition where every 40-60 secs the coolant level rises from the center of the tank to the top then bubbles out enough bubbles to bring it down to the initial level. I left it doing this for an hour in order to get comfortable that it is not just bubbling out air pockets. I also noted the system still had pressure after sitting for 15 hours which rules out (I believe) a simple leak. This has led me to the conclusion I have a head gasket or other internal engine issue.
I know I was advised to ignore the bubbles under my dash because O2 readings are my problem; however, I refuse to believe you can tune an engine that uses its coolant expansion tank as its exhaust port. I also think that the O2 sensors can't get accurate reading given they analyze the results.
Again, probably one of my useless posts with useless dialogue. Sorry for forcing you to read it. I will limit my further dialogue to relying information solely from the OBD2 port.
A result of one of my other useless diagnostic tests from this morning which I assume you won't care about since it didn't come from an UltraGuage:
Did a coolant system bleed and after about 60-70 mins (per Spike's guidance), I was still getting a condition where every 40-60 secs the coolant level rises from the center of the tank to the top then bubbles out enough bubbles to bring it down to the initial level. I left it doing this for an hour in order to get comfortable that it is not just bubbling out air pockets. I also noted the system still had pressure after sitting for 15 hours which rules out (I believe) a simple leak. This has led me to the conclusion I have a head gasket or other internal engine issue.
I know I was advised to ignore the bubbles under my dash because O2 readings are my problem; however, I refuse to believe you can tune an engine that uses its coolant expansion tank as its exhaust port. I also think that the O2 sensors can't get accurate reading given they analyze the results.
Again, probably one of my useless posts with useless dialogue. Sorry for forcing you to read it. I will limit my further dialogue to relying information solely from the OBD2 port.
Are you ever going to hook up to scanner or are you just going to continue this speculative and useless dialogue. You can't guess what's wrong with your rig, no one on this forum can magically tell you what the hell your rig is doing... Do some actual diagnostic work already!
A vacuum leak causing numbers like you have is pretty unlikely, imo.
You engine operation is controlled by a computer, that computer is influenced by electronic sensors, knowing the state and operation of those sensors is vital. It's the first gawdamned thing you should do in troubleshooting this issue. And it's the easiest. Plug it in and read! Stop throwing darts already dude!
I'd like to add that this thread has some great tech contributions, thanks guys, but seriously dude, get on with it.
A vacuum leak causing numbers like you have is pretty unlikely, imo.
You engine operation is controlled by a computer, that computer is influenced by electronic sensors, knowing the state and operation of those sensors is vital. It's the first gawdamned thing you should do in troubleshooting this issue. And it's the easiest. Plug it in and read! Stop throwing darts already dude!
I'd like to add that this thread has some great tech contributions, thanks guys, but seriously dude, get on with it.
#66
Sorry - I forgot to mention that in the post above - went to the auto parts stores in town (3 of them) and no one seems to have it. I found it on the US NAPA website but the Canadian NAPA doesn't seem to find it ... will keep looking.
#68
I am sorry my posts bother you but I think the idea that it is impossible to do diagnostics on a vehicle without a gauge sold on some ghetto website is abit out of line ... I agree that this is a useful tool (and that is why I ordered one) and I agree with your comment that these trucks have computers (that relies on sensors) and therefore reading these sensors is a useful diagnostic tool ... I also agree that a vacuum leak is highly unlikely to be causing all my problems .. That being said it is something that is likely contributing to the problems at hand ....
A result of one of my other useless diagnostic tests from this morning which I assume you won't care about since it didn't come from an UltraGuage:
A result of one of my other useless diagnostic tests from this morning which I assume you won't care about since it didn't come from an UltraGuage: