Where did you get the cross rod tube & Bearings from???

 

Cross rod tube?
The Drag link is a SS one from Rovertym Engineering and the Panhard rod appears to be an adjustable one from QT or TerraFirma.
The wheel bearings can be picked up at any Napa, though I can't recall the part #.

 

After all that work the death wobbles are back.

Here's what I've done since last post:

- new swivel ball on passenger side
- new lower swivel pins and bearings
- new upper swivel pins, bearings and ralco(sp?) bushings

Set preload to about 14 pounds with a fish scale. Is this the proper method for anti-lock breaks? If not how?

New one shot grease and all the seals and gaskets needed to get the job done. I have zero play in the wheel. I have zero play in the panhard rod. I have zero play in the steering shaft. But I still get death wobbles at around 50MPH.

I am at whits end about what to do. This has been the worst project I have ever encountered working on a vehicle and I've done a fair share of vehicle work.

Any ideas what be more than appreciated. I wish knew someone close that could help.

 

Swivel preload for ABS axles is set with a torque wrench and adapter. It's covered in the shop manual.

 

I used this thread from the Disco I Tech Section:

https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...preload-36607/

It is confusing due to his write up is for an ABS equipped Disco I. It's not until you read all the way to the end of page 3 that you find it's not a good write up since he uses a fish scale and has the oil seal installed. Why is it still on the Tech Section?

How can you make a homemade tool?

 

I am at wits end!

Please help me figure this out.

What can be left to check. I am still getting death wobbles at 50MPH. I have replaced all the TRE's and completely rebuilt my swivel ***** (all new pins, bearings, bushings, etc).

I have no noticeable play in my steering box and panhard rod bushings. When you turn the wheel the steering shaft turns immediately and you can only feel normal movement when you hold the steering shaft while the wheel is turned.

I recently had the tires balanced and the alignment checked.

 

Sticking caliper? The Death Wobble on my 97 seemed to come on strong when braking and turning right in my case, like a sharp expressway exit. Took an IR thermometer, drove down an empty road, coasted to the side with no brakes. Got out and "shot" the brake disks, on one axle a disk was 40-50 degrees hotter that the opposite side. I had also done TREs, damper, and wheel bearings. Damper was just worn out, does not help, except to hide just a tiny bit.

 

things that i know have fixed death wobble on other solid axle coil spring 4x4 are

1) making sure the bolt is the proper size at both bushing ends of the track bar ( I think you are calling it a panhard bar usa vehicles it is a track bar)if the bolt is the wrong diameter OR the center sleve in the bushing has too large I.D. all the new bushings in the world will do no good

2) control arm bushings ( the bars running from the axle back to the frame) I see you have the terra lift and control arms, how much lift and did this start after adding the lift?

3) loose bolts holding the steering box to the frame( hard to see)

4) bad steering box

5) bad rag joint between steering box and steering column

6) tires tires tires, mudd tires + bad caster can = death wobble

7) did you have a full alignment done? is the caster/camber set right? looking at you tires from the front do they look perpendicular to the ground or do they look like this / - l or \- l

a bad alignment is just that you can have the toe off some and still be in the "green " on the computer alignment machines

8) bad bent rim, just because it balances does not mean it is not bad

I am sure some will not agree with the above just throwing out some things I have known to fix this problem since you did all the hard parts

 

This is what it looks like.

You can buy them here: OTC Tools LRT-57-024 Steering Torque Test Adapter for $69 or make one.
The round hole and slot fit over two of the diagonally opposite top pin bolts.
You can make one by measuring the center to center distance between the two bolts and making a punch mark in a short piece of 1/4" flat stock. Then equidistant between those make another punch mark. Drill the two end holes so they fit the bolt heads snugly and slot one. Then take the piece to a machine shop or welding shop that has a Metal Muncher (hydraulic punch press) and have them punch a 3/8" square hole at the middle punch mark.

As mentioned, correct bolt sizes are important. The panhard rod bolts are M14x75.

Have you read this post? https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...-wobble-55586/

 

Thanks for all the great help!

I started with the easy stuff today. So I rotated the tires and the wobbles are gone.

Would have never thought an out of balance tire could cause it to react like that.

Live and learn.