General Maintenance?
#11
07-07-2010, 11:38 AM
Camel Trophy
#12
07-07-2010, 02:43 PM
Baja
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There is a write up on resealing the inspection plate on the t-case in the write up section.
But here is how you change those fluids.
Remove the fill plug on the diff, remove the drain plug.
Once empty replace drain plug and fill with gear lube (I use 75w-140) until it starts to come out of the fill hole.
Replace fill plug.
Both diffs are done the same way and each takes just under 2 qts.
The t-case is the same.
The fill plug (remove first) is at the 10 o'clock position when looking at the parking brake drum from the back.
The drain plug is on the bottom at the back.
I have found the easiest way to change the t-case is to run the front of the truck up on ramps, drain.
Refill and put the fill plug back, then run the back of the truck onto the ramps and finish filling it until fluid comes out of the fill hole.
You will need a 1/2" drive ratchet to remove the fill/drain plugs on both diffs and the fill plug on the t-case.
The drain plug is like a oil drain plug, a hex head bolt.
The t-case also takes just under 2 qts.
Personally I run the front end up onto ramps, do the front diff, drain/refill t-case.
Run the back up on ramps, do the rear diff then top off the t-case.
While the truck is on ramps remove your axle breathers and make sure they are not clogged.
But here is how you change those fluids.
Remove the fill plug on the diff, remove the drain plug.
Once empty replace drain plug and fill with gear lube (I use 75w-140) until it starts to come out of the fill hole.
Replace fill plug.
Both diffs are done the same way and each takes just under 2 qts.
The t-case is the same.
The fill plug (remove first) is at the 10 o'clock position when looking at the parking brake drum from the back.
The drain plug is on the bottom at the back.
I have found the easiest way to change the t-case is to run the front of the truck up on ramps, drain.
Refill and put the fill plug back, then run the back of the truck onto the ramps and finish filling it until fluid comes out of the fill hole.
You will need a 1/2" drive ratchet to remove the fill/drain plugs on both diffs and the fill plug on the t-case.
The drain plug is like a oil drain plug, a hex head bolt.
The t-case also takes just under 2 qts.
Personally I run the front end up onto ramps, do the front diff, drain/refill t-case.
Run the back up on ramps, do the rear diff then top off the t-case.
While the truck is on ramps remove your axle breathers and make sure they are not clogged.
You may want to spray everything good with PB Blaster prior to trying to loosen. Also use a long breaker bar and a lot of patience along with a slow steady pull on those fill/drain bolts if they have not been out in a while.
Also get some cheap degreaser like Greased Lighting or Simple Green and spray it on straight to help clean the accumulated gunk off everything underneath.
#13
07-07-2010, 02:51 PM
#14
07-07-2010, 03:11 PM
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Right on the teflon tape.
I have found PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench to out perform WD40 as a penetrant. I buy it in bulk by the gallon and use a refillable spray bottle or buy several cans when on sale.
I also avoid using pressure washer to minimize unwanted problems with wate intrusion. Spray it down good with the cheap stuff from the dollar store ansd wipe with old rags. or wear old clothes and clean it up as you are under it, the throw away that outfit, it will get cleaner each time you work on it. In a year or two it will be much better.
Does the CDL Linkage work or is it frozen with corrosion? Mine was, most are if not used regularly.
I have found PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench to out perform WD40 as a penetrant. I buy it in bulk by the gallon and use a refillable spray bottle or buy several cans when on sale.
I also avoid using pressure washer to minimize unwanted problems with wate intrusion. Spray it down good with the cheap stuff from the dollar store ansd wipe with old rags. or wear old clothes and clean it up as you are under it, the throw away that outfit, it will get cleaner each time you work on it. In a year or two it will be much better.
Does the CDL Linkage work or is it frozen with corrosion? Mine was, most are if not used regularly.
#15
07-07-2010, 03:56 PM
ive tried using the CDL before to no avail. I never really wanted to force it because i never needed it. Think this is something that the pb blaster could free up or does it need more attention than that due to possible corrosion?
I'm hoping to chip away at the underside of this in the next few weekends ( regardless of the 100+ deg heat in philly). I know im losing antifreeze somewhere and it seems that i may have another leak down there as well. Thats why i'll degrease it, wipe it down [not pressure wash it
] triage the leaks and move from there. My plan is to do all the grease points, and the t-case and pumpkins as time permits. Is there a specific order i should go after this stuff in? I'll probably also be pulling any pans as i go to inspect/replace seals (except oil because i just changed that and dont want to dump $45 worth of oil to look at the pan).
I'm also interested in the axel breathers.
Best
Turf
I'm hoping to chip away at the underside of this in the next few weekends ( regardless of the 100+ deg heat in philly). I know im losing antifreeze somewhere and it seems that i may have another leak down there as well. Thats why i'll degrease it, wipe it down [not pressure wash it
] triage the leaks and move from there. My plan is to do all the grease points, and the t-case and pumpkins as time permits. Is there a specific order i should go after this stuff in? I'll probably also be pulling any pans as i go to inspect/replace seals (except oil because i just changed that and dont want to dump $45 worth of oil to look at the pan). I'm also interested in the axel breathers.
Best
Turf
#18
07-10-2010, 03:02 PM
#20
07-10-2010, 03:56 PM
Baja
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Spike, thanks for the Pics. That will help tremendously. So what do we need to do as far as maintainng the axle breathers?
Silver Slug: As far the question regarding motoroil - avoid the 5w30, 5 is not heavy enough. It will make lots of noise running on 5w30.
Turf: As far as freeing up the CDL linkage, you pretty much are stuck with removing the center console to get to the affected pieces. It is not really difficult, but is somewhat involved. I took mine out over two years ago and it is still out now. But my CDL works like a champ.
I'll dig up a link to some material I found when I did mine. There are a lo of little pieces that may need to be replaced or cleaned up real good. Once it is working, you need to engage it occasionally to keep it working smooth.
Download the RAVE and get familar with it.
Below are pics showing the pivot mechanism at the bottom of the linkage as well as views from the top. You will also see the access cutout I did while working on mine to allow better access. I patched it afterwards. Thesecond and third pic show my cut-out and the mechanism behind it. Ths is whatpivots to engage and disengage the CDL. There is also an interlock switch. Mine had gone bad.
Silver Slug: As far the question regarding motoroil - avoid the 5w30, 5 is not heavy enough. It will make lots of noise running on 5w30.
Turf: As far as freeing up the CDL linkage, you pretty much are stuck with removing the center console to get to the affected pieces. It is not really difficult, but is somewhat involved. I took mine out over two years ago and it is still out now. But my CDL works like a champ.
I'll dig up a link to some material I found when I did mine. There are a lo of little pieces that may need to be replaced or cleaned up real good. Once it is working, you need to engage it occasionally to keep it working smooth.
Download the RAVE and get familar with it.
Below are pics showing the pivot mechanism at the bottom of the linkage as well as views from the top. You will also see the access cutout I did while working on mine to allow better access. I patched it afterwards. Thesecond and third pic show my cut-out and the mechanism behind it. Ths is whatpivots to engage and disengage the CDL. There is also an interlock switch. Mine had gone bad.
Last edited by Danny Lee 97 Disco; 07-10-2010 at 03:59 PM.