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  #31  
Old 07-12-2010, 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by turf63
ive tried using the CDL before to no avail. I never really wanted to force it because i never needed it.
Just another newbie's opinion, but if you haven't already, try shifting the CDL when rolling at 1 or 2 mph in neutral. I was able to un-stick mine doing this. "Smooth as butter" now.
 
  #32  
Old 07-12-2010, 09:26 AM
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things i learned this weekend during some 60K maint:
1) Spike is the man; at one point when cleaning my throttle body i thought i sent a throttle linkage spring flying into the yard and he helped match to sample his linkage with mine to ensure i wasnt missing one.
2) When you simple green all the gunk off the undercarriage, be prepared to see some things you dont want to. (like a possible rear main seal leak (will white shepard fix this?))
3) Be super careful with your radiator plug, its plastic and the threads love to mis align.
4) Beer makes the work seem more fun.

Thanks again to everyone who helped me stay (relatively) event free during my mis-adventure
 
  #33  
Old 07-12-2010, 09:41 AM
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Originally Posted by turf63
2) When you simple green all the gunk off the undercarriage, be prepared to see some things you dont want to. (like a possible rear main seal leak (will white shepard fix this?))
Yes but you may not need it.
When I bought my truck it was also leaking there, and I used that to my advantage when buying the truck (I already knew the repair was going to be free)
Replace the rear axle breather with a new one.
If the leak continues (95% it wont) then use the White Shepard.
When the breather gets clogged the diff builds pressure and it blows out of the weakest point, usually the front seal.

http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/FTC2176.cfm

As part of my spring time maintenance I take mine out and clean it and make sure it is still good.
I wish they were made of brass because they rust and the hole inside it is very small and will clog with just a flake of rust.
 
  #34  
Old 07-12-2010, 09:44 AM
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And make sure you change the gear lube after you install the new one because yours will have water in it.
Water goes up when it evaporates but if its escape path is clogged it will collect inside the diff and contaminate the fluid.
 
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Old 07-12-2010, 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Spike555
And make sure you change the gear lube after you install the new one because yours will have water in it.
Water goes up when it evaporates but if its escape path is clogged it will collect inside the diff and contaminate the fluid.
hehehe
 
  #36  
Old 07-12-2010, 02:05 PM
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i would LOVE 18 mpg! right now i get between 13-14.

Spike, I pulled the breathers yesterday as per your suggestion earlier in the thread, but i'll be honest, i didnt really know what i was looking for. I took em off and looked up into the caps of them, they seemed ok, but i didnt run anything through them, like a drill bit as you suggested. Is there a qunatifiable way to tell if they're clogged or should i just swap it out?

Changing the gear lube in the diffs is next on my list too (along with the headliner). Whats the volume? about 2 qts per diff?
 
  #37  
Old 07-12-2010, 02:37 PM
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It takes 2 quarts in each diff. You will see if they are clogged. There will be a goopy brown muck clogging the hole. Also, your fluid will be milky. wipe it off and blow through it. Easiest way to be sure.

You mentioned a rear main leak. White shepherd is great on getting seals back to new. I assume you mean the main seal on the engine? Make sure it isn't leaking from your valve covers and dripping down the back first. Also check your PCV system, the kit is under $25 at ATB.

Headliner is not too bad either. I did mine in an afternoon and I had to do it twice. I got a backer from a friend as mine was completely bare. I didn't realize the 2 support runners were gone too...
 
  #38  
Old 07-12-2010, 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by KCRich
Just another newbie's opinion, but if you haven't already, try shifting the CDL when rolling at 1 or 2 mph in neutral. I was able to un-stick mine doing this. "Smooth as butter" now.
I will try this, hopefully the truck doesnt explode, haha.

OK Disco, im pretty sure it's not the valve covers, seems to be coming from the engines rear main, i'll try and take pics when time permits, *Btw how do you post pics?

After i blow through the breather hose, and determine if it's clogged or un clogged, how do i go about diagnosing the PCV system? I dont even know what that is, thats a new acronym for me.

And im not intimidated by the headliner at all. I just cant wait to get my fabric in so i can start on it. It's gonna be awesome. My wife's gonna hate it. haha. Digital desert camo
 
  #39  
Old 07-12-2010, 04:34 PM
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Originally Posted by turf63
I will try this, hopefully the truck doesnt explode, haha.
In fact, if I remember right, the manual suggests rolling in neutral (less than 5 mph) when shifting from hi to lo or engaging the CDL, so you'll be fine.
 
  #40  
Old 07-12-2010, 04:38 PM
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Originally Posted by turf63
I will try this, hopefully the truck doesnt explode, haha.

OK Disco, im pretty sure it's not the valve covers, seems to be coming from the engines rear main, i'll try and take pics when time permits, *Btw how do you post pics?

After i blow through the breather hose, and determine if it's clogged or un clogged, how do i go about diagnosing the PCV system? I dont even know what that is, thats a new acronym for me.

And im not intimidated by the headliner at all. I just cant wait to get my fabric in so i can start on it. It's gonna be awesome. My wife's gonna hate it. haha. Digital desert camo
No need to blow through the Positive Crankcase Ventilation.
It is the hose that goes from the passenger side valve cover to the intake plenum.
Remove the hose, use needle nose pliers to remove the oil separator.
Clean it with carb cleaner.
Put it all bad together.
Replace the hose if needed.
I used vacuum line and hose clamps.
 


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