That chain is definitely loose. A new one will go on very tight.

My cover and gears didn't display the scoring yours showed at 163k. I'd go ahead and just replace the gears.

 

I think my plan of attack on this is going to be simple. Clean everything up, and put it back together for now. I think I'll just go ahead and use some black rtv to seal the cover and some blue for the water pump and just drive the truck as is for now.

I would rather spend money on a 2.8 isuzu conversion plus a full rebuilt of the 380 manual. The engine should run long enough for me to continue playing with it while I focus on the other stuff. Who knows, I might get lucky and get the oil pressure to come up just from the cleaning of everything. I'm building this truck as a keeper, I got in a LOT of trouble with my wife for selling off the other 3... She has put her foot down and said that this is HER truck, will be in HER name, and WILL NOT be sold...

She wants the Diesel 2.8 isuzu conversion in it as much as I do...

I found a 97 se7 yesterday that hit a wall, front totally destroyed, seems to have a really nice interior and an from what I can tell a perfect dash, I think I'm going to work out a deal to try and get parts from it.

 

I would suggest you try to see how much they would sell the whole 97 as is, then use what you need, part out what you can and sell what's left as scrap.

I have a local place here that prefers to sell entire remvoed engines and the tranny with T/c still attched a lot cheaper than I have seen either one availale anywhere else. For less than the price of that new cover I get all three (engine, tranny & TC).

 

I know what he wants for it as a whole and he's about 400 to high. I'll let him sit i=on it for awhile. HE's wanting almost as much as a running driving truck! Things frame is torqued also... With that kind of damage, I can imagine what the condition of the engine etc are since it was running during the impact...

 

All-righty then... I've got everything back together, and will be ready to test it once I learn how to set the timing. Engine moved during all this so I have to start from scratch as far as putting in the distributor, I tried to match it up but no go. I've got the required pages printed out but I don't have a timing light, so I'll have to run and see if I can get one from a friend.

 

As for the donor truck, as long as it runs and goes into gear fine it should all be alright.
The inertia switch would have killed the fuel pump, so no engine overheating.
If you start it and it rattles and makes one hell of a racket then look really close at the front of the engine.
Tweaking the frame in a accident like that the whole engine and eveything will move with the frame, broken motor mounts etc. are the worst that should happen.

 

I have a timing light that I no longer need. You can have it if you want it, just cover postage and it is yours!

 

How much is shipping to 30738? I see that I can buy a new one for as cheap as 12 bucks....

Neiko #20724L Xenon Automotive Timing Light

 

Set the timing today. Got the truck running again. set it to 6 Btdc. Seems to like it there.

After sanding the scoring with 600 grit, and cleaning everything out, the oil light now goes out and stays out. Even at idle. Still a little engine noise, but not as bad, so it wasn't all for not.

One thing I noticed is the vacuum advance is completely missing from my distrib, leaving a hole where it use to be... and the line to the plenum has been plugged. I wonder what the deal with that was. truck seems to run fin without it.
Going to move onto some other things to fix on her Tires, coils, shocks etc.

 

You would be wise to still do an oil PSI test. What you know is that you have pressure above 7 PSI to reset the switch. How much above is known only by the Rover gods, and without an offering of wild women, dancing, big fire, roasted meat, and fire-water; who knows what evil may befall your truck......