The bottom nipples fit pretty tight in the truck frame grommets. You'll also see when you hook up the stiff cooler lines, you'll have no up/down left/right play. Use the existing side mounts from your old rad, pinch tight against new rad (which will be ribbed plastic) and tac weld or epoxy it that way so it keeps tight on the side tanks. This also restricts movement in all directions. I used heavy duty big zip ties (military ones) to mock it all up and ended up leaving them as added security. Snipped the ends and they're barely even noticeable.

Same for the shroud, zip ties thru the rad with another zip tie as an anchor. Should be more than sufficient as aftermarket oil coolers use this same type of mounting. If anything, the gap allows for more flow. I've had ZERO cooling problems with this gap and setup. I'm running the stock electric fans as LR intended (A/C & aux/backup cooling). Still running the fan clutch (GM).

 

The gap between rad and shroud means its sucking air from around the rad, not through. I may try and set mine back farther (depending on if i can or not...)

thanks for the rest, i'll be hittin the junkyard on lunch hoping to find all the parts i need

If all goes well i'll have the truck on the road tomorrow

 

I was talking about the gap between rad and condenser. My bad. The LR shroud fits perfectly flat on the GM rad. No Gaps.

 

Okayy.... junkyard was a dud (more or less) did find some but realized the oil and tranny fluid lines are opposite ours.....

Which led me to another question, the oil side connector seems to be larger than the tranny fluid side on this vehicle.

Looking at the rover, it's got 1/2in OD lines running to both oil and tranny cooler.

From the pics you showed it looks like you are restricting the oil flow on the pass side (even slightly) with the reducer.

I'd like thoughts from you guys would this be an issue? We have a thermostat but hotter oil would break down faster right?

 

I cut the lines and fittings of said model year GM truck, then cut the ends off the LR cooler lines with my die grinder, de-burred/flarred the cut ends, and used high pressure power steering hose to adapt GM to LR. Simple really.

The reducers came with the new rad and are actually used in GM vehicles (trucks, suvs, vans). No restriction or flow issues thus far ( 6 months later).

 

I pointed this issue out earlier in the thread btw...

 

I am aware of that... Just was curious of the flow restriction and potential conseuqences

Sometimes I think too much on things.. Just ordered a rad though looking forward to gettin my truck back on the road

 

Which one did you order?

 

Radiator for Chevy GMC Fits C1500 C2500 K1500 K2500 | eBay

only one that still lists the 1-1/4 core thickness.

 

What diameter PS hose did you end up going with? ... most i'm seeing are only 3/8 in ID and the 1/2in fittings don't work so well


So far i'm rather frustrated with this project, should have done some more research (sadly) .. I will do a writeup when i'm done, assuming I can complete this