Go with a line that is slightly smaller so it fits very snug and you get no leaks. The trick to fitting the line on is by putting the tips in boiling water to soften them up enough to slide right on the lines. They tighten back up as they cool. Add some quality hose clamps and you're set. No clue on the line size. Like I said, I cut the cooler hyd lines (black hose, cut as far back as I could) and fittings (metal couplers with metal lines attached) off a donor late 90's GM truck. S10 blazers, astro vans and GM trucks all use the same metal fittings that will screw right in to the GM radiator you purchased. I know this because I tested all of those types of radiators with these metal coupler fittings just for my own SA. It went pretty smooth for me and I wasn't expecting it to come out as good as it did. Do yourself a favor and cut the hole in the hood and cover it with a small functional hood scoop now versus just dent it upwards to clear the rad fill neck. Don't bother with working the lower support with a hammer, not needed if you just cut the hood. I'll post pics of my scoop/breather later. People actually think its some kind of Dorkel setup... Idiots I tell ya..

 

Let me walk you thru it:

1. Go to junkyard and find yourself a GM truck with built in oil coolers.
2. Unscrew the 4 cooler lines.
3. Follow the lines (they're a combination of metal and rubber hyd lines) as far back as you can reach.
4. Cut said lines (the rubber), pay for them and take them home.
5. Now that you're at home, cut the lines again but this time at the farthest point of the metal portion of the line where it meets to the crimped on piece with rubber line.
6. Cut crimped off piece of rubber line. This rubber line will be the piece you can use to join said GM coupler/metal line to the Rover metal cooler lines.
7. Cutoff coupler from the Rovers metal cooler lines as you will not need them for this setup. Cut as close to the coupler fitting as you can to give you plenty of metal tube to work with.
8. Screw on GM coupler/metal lines to the GM rad at this point.
9. Attach rubber hyd hose to all 4 metal lines. Each should be about 3-4 inches.
10. Attach Rovers 4 metal lines to the 4 rubber hyd hoses.
11. Push lines in as much as possible (remember boiling water trick).
12. Attach 2 hose clamps to each line. Use Good quality clamps so you get a nice and tight seal.
13. Fire it up and check for leaks. Clamps may loosen a bit so just re-check for tightness and you'll be good. I had a small leak at first but it was due to a clamp not being tight enough.

Now enjoy you're re-engineered, more efficient cooling system.

Going on 6+ months with my setup and have had ZERO cooling systm issues.

 

Perfect thanks I'll take a run through again they gave me the last bits free but don't think I understood what I was looking for

I tried denting the hood, couldn't clear it properly then ripped through.. oh well big hole there now i'll find somethin to cover it with asap...........


Edit: also considered using the s-10 blazer radiator..but its missing the heater return line
The only thing I will miss from the old setup is the heater lines running to the engine feed (helps to warm up faster, esp in cold environment like here )

 

Vatozone had the hood scoop I needed. Was $15, self adhesive but I added self tapping metal bolts and is actually functional (flow thru design). Looks way better than the dents sticking up. I never actually broke thru the aluminum but saw the scoop and decided to use it.
Pilot Automotive/Universal mini hood scoop CZ-4008 at AutoZone.com

I'm going to eventually get another to make it match up and add ducting to dump directly into my CAI setup.

 

How much does the filler neck actually stick through? Wasn't there some way to lower the radiator so it didn't require cutting the hood?? What about shortening the filler neck?

 

No and no.

 

Sticks up 1-2in now ...

With the blazer radiator (15in core) it would be direct fit.......

I'll snap a pic next time i get to work on it

 

Reasons for are in one of the previous pages. Any lower and it won't let the lower hose clear. Filler neck is plastic and not a lot to work with.

 

Scoop pic. Also newly painted wheels. Duplicolor truck bed liner.

 

Dat azz...