Ha, Over heating issue... questions.
Well, the water pump is fine. It was removed yesterday. Since the trucks down so far I thing we are going to go ahead and replace the timing chain and gears, truck has 197k on it now so due.
Also, going to put those ford 19 injectors in it. Since I have a set of them sitting here.
Can't hurt to replace those old injectors.
Should have it back together later today or tommorow to test it further,
OK.
So I got everything back together again. Drove the truck and same thing, the temp started to climb.
The truck was cooled down and then we let it sit and idle with the heater on max, for 30 minutes, it sat and ran and held a steady 192 the whole time.
Turned off the heater and it climbed to 195-197 idling.
Turned on the A/C Temp climbed to 205-210 idling.
But truck run perfect. Not a hint of steam or smoke out the tail pipe, no funny smells, no leaks anywhere.
Guess the only other option it to take the second better looking radiator and have it rodded. Acts like there is a restriction somewhere in the water flow.
So I got everything back together again. Drove the truck and same thing, the temp started to climb.
The truck was cooled down and then we let it sit and idle with the heater on max, for 30 minutes, it sat and ran and held a steady 192 the whole time.
Turned off the heater and it climbed to 195-197 idling.
Turned on the A/C Temp climbed to 205-210 idling.
But truck run perfect. Not a hint of steam or smoke out the tail pipe, no funny smells, no leaks anywhere.
Guess the only other option it to take the second better looking radiator and have it rodded. Acts like there is a restriction somewhere in the water flow.
noticed you have a few wagons, mine lasted until 305K, now I have a 93 300 cabrio. Old wagons can do the "bunny hop" when both rear sphere accumulators go out.
If you have an IR thermometer, the rad should be within 10F top to bottom on the fins. Look for an indy rad shop that does construction and farm gear (his boat payment). Rover rad is just a tea cup.
If you have an IR thermometer, the rad should be within 10F top to bottom on the fins. Look for an indy rad shop that does construction and farm gear (his boat payment). Rover rad is just a tea cup.
noticed you have a few wagons, mine lasted until 305K, now I have a 93 300 cabrio. Old wagons can do the "bunny hop" when both rear sphere accumulators go out.
If you have an IR thermometer, the rad should be within 10F top to bottom on the fins. Look for an indy rad shop that does construction and farm gear (his boat payment). Rover rad is just a tea cup.
If you have an IR thermometer, the rad should be within 10F top to bottom on the fins. Look for an indy rad shop that does construction and farm gear (his boat payment). Rover rad is just a tea cup.
My daily driver is the Euro 85 300TDT. Its everything in it is in german, and it has every Euro option including the manual sunroof, headlight wipers full underbody armor and even the drivers air bag. Oh, and a full factory alarm system. which is something that I've never even hear of on one, but it's on the build card and on the car.
Just finished rebuilding the entire front suspension on it, put new tires all the way around and the MC gave out. So I need to fix it. HAs 250m on it
Another Idea, could the original injectors be causing a lean condition? Would swapping in the Ford 19's help? How do you go about setting/checking the timing on one of these anyways?
There is no knock sensor on the drivers side due to the headers, but this has been this way for the last 14k with no issues.
There is no knock sensor on the drivers side due to the headers, but this has been this way for the last 14k with no issues.
did more checking. I have a feeling this is an issue causing the truck to run LEAN. The radiator, 5 degree difference from top to bottom. Heads and everything else running in the 200 range, headers 700+ degrees! Also ultra gauge and other scanners are showing the bank 1 Right 02 sensor and giving really odd temp reading (over 8thousand) Going to pull that o2 and see if there is an issue with it. May weld in some bungs to raise the o2 sensors out of the pipe some. But it's looking a lot like the issue I had in the past with the ECU going bad and causing the truck to foul plugs, only in reverse this time. Wish there was some way to time this thing.
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