High idle and code 48
#1
High idle and code 48
After doing some research, I came to the assumption I may have a bad IACV. My 95 D1(Auto) was choking, sputtering and wanting to die when coming to a stop for more than a few seconds. I would have to either drop it into neutral and feather the gas and brake with both feet or hope it picked up rpm's on its own while in neutral. So, I went to parts store and picked up a replacement IACV for it. I followed the procedure in box of retracting the pintle and installed it. It started up fine but idled high at about 1750-1800 RPM's.. The instructions say to drive @ 40mph for 30seconds to "force" ECM to program the new IACV to correct readings. I did that and it ran fine for a day. This morning I started it and back to hi idle 1800rpm. So I drive 12 miles, 10 of which are freeway, get off at exit and it now idles back to normal. but the CEL came on(code 48). It is running and idling fine at this point. I pull over to a parking lot and shut it down, reset CEL for the hell of it. Then go to restart it and it cranks and labors to start up, almost like a weak battery, but idles fine @700rpm. Put it inot gear and wants to choke and die..... So rest of way home , I have to feather the throttle again when coming to a stop light. And again I have the code 48.... So now I have a high idle @1800 rpms in park or neutral aand then it drops to under 500 and wanting to choke and die when put in gear....UGH. What gives people? Any suggestions, I'm stumped.
#2
Ok, so I got the high idle problem adjusted... But it still wants to choke, sputter and die when shifting in/out of park -->reverse--> drive( backing out of driveway/parking spot). Have yet to drive it far enough since this am to see if it will sputter and die at a traffic light. Driving around the neighborhood and surface streets and coming to a stop at stop signs, it idles fine, as I do not have to sit for more than a few seconds. So my problem seems to be intermittent. Could it be as simple as a bad battery? I am open to any suggestions at this point. Thanks in advance people
#3
Stepper motor.
Code 48 - Stepper motorCheck base idle speed as follows:
Code 48 - Stepper motorCheck base idle speed as follows:
- First remove and clean the idle motor and the port it screws into. Clean the throttle body as well.
- On the top of the throttle body you will see a hole (possibly covered by an anti tamper plug) for the base idle adjuster.
- Remove the air bypass hose from the throttle body, which will cause the engine to speed up to 2500rpm or so. Unplug the connector to the idle motor after 5 seconds then reconnect the hose.
- Squeeze the hose shut with needle nose vise grips and adjust the base idle using an allen wrench to give an idle speed of 6-700rpm. Get the lowest speed you can that gives smooth running and does not stall when blipping the throttle. Screw in for slower idle, out for faster idle.
- Reconnect the idle stepper and remove the vise grip and you should be done.
- In addition, refer to tests 15 and 16 of continuity test procedure. Check road speed sensor- refer to test 25 of continuity test procedure.
#7
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Oklahoma; where the winds come rolling down the plains.
Posts: 553
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes
on
7 Posts
Yeah my Disco suffers from the same problems. I have tried everything I can think of. Replaced almost all the sensors and still have problems. Does your engine idle fine when cold? Does the sputter crap appear when the engine gets warm? I keep wondering if it isn't the fuel temperature sensor on my Disco. Havn't had time to pick one up yet. I wonder what other sensors would cause repeated RPM failure besides the IACV. I assume my IACV is fine because when the vehicle is cold it runs perfect. It just runs like !@#$ when warmed up. I feel your pain. I have been running with this issue all summer. I get almost 7MPG on good days when the temperature is cooler out.
#8
#9
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post