i will definetely check that out, now whats the difference between 7mm wires and 8 mm wires, besides the size?

 

In high voltage wiring, the thickness of the insulation (as well as the material used) impacts how well the insulation holds up in service, in this case in a very hot environment surrounded by oil and gas fumes. The 8mm will last longer. The silicone based insulation will hold up longer than the older style rubber that become brittle (cracks) and lets voltage leak out in the form of small sparks that can be seen in the dark. The electrical pulse for the spark is also very short duration, and the diameter of the cable impacts the distortion of that pulse by various electrical losses, but you would need good test equipment to see it. Yes, if you were broken down by the junk yard you could use any cable you could find to limp home.

 

thanks a lot for all your help, i will keep looking into it and see if i can correct my problem.

 

When I change spark plug wires, I keep the old set for emergency spares. Had to rsort to using one the other day. You should make up a kit to keep in the car with basic tools and having a couple of spare spark plug wires can be a big help if you really need one.

 

I would get a new coil pack at least for that position. It probably burned thru from being loose and arcing. That voltage level will char, crack and otherwise damage the plastic and you will have "Leakage" where you need a solid connection.

Also clean your IACV and all the ports on the plenum. If IACV is really nasty it will stick and give idle issues.

 

Good point on the "char" which goes hand in hand with "carbon tracking" - a path of carbonized gunk that can bleed off voltage, without showing sparks (the sparks already made the pathway).

 

thanks everyone for the input, i will go get all the parts and see where i go from there i will keep posted and let you know of the proggress