FTR I never said I was going to use anything... Only that I would check it out.


It comes from constantly being bombarded by the typical BBS hounds who have thousands of posts yet add little value. They never have anything constructive to add; only (attempt) to point out ones faults and ineptitude of others who post.

The format is always the same... They barley read the original post and usually come to some sort of conclusion and post some sort of condescending answer. Often, they pick out some minute detail and comment on why that is wrong. Usually, they ask a question of the OP and then formulate their answer on why the OP is an idiot and they are somehow superior. They typically jump on a thread and answer questions that were never asked. They usually do not read the entire thread to see how it develops. It usually ends with "If you don't want my help don't ask," "just trying to help," etc

Jake is the perfect example.

If you have something constructive to write and wish to add value, then I would appreciate your comments. Otherwise thank you for not posting.

 

I wasn't trying to help I was hoping you overheated your bearing and gear oil because you're a douche bag hahaha

 

Spike is right, I removed the banjo bolt that holds the breather tube on the diff on mine, it was 100% plugged with mud. Made oil come out the rear wheel seals for me and mix with brake dust to make "flubber". Don't know if it was from wading (rear diff vent is like near the transfer case) by previous owner. Or mud chiggers. Plus a plugged one won't let evaporation take place. Guess we are lucky the EPA hasn't made us install a recycling system for that....

Think I saw a post somewhere about extending that rear tube higher up with some fridge ice maker line. Just don't want low spots in the line where water could form a trap (like under your sink).

 

No such luck ball-bag. Oh yea... Your mom.

 

Spikes explanation makes perfect sense. Extending that tube make sense as well, but first I will just have to check it and clean it out. You mention a a P-trap would trap water... Inverting that at the top of the tube would trap air and help keep water out....

 

Here's my take, and I'll start off with a question.
Have you changed your front diff oil since we put the lift on?
My thought is that with the lift the inspection/fill hole is rotated down and is a bit lower than on an unlifted truck. This could be why oil came out when you pulled the upper plug. Or it could just be it was slightly overfilled last time. Regardless, I don't think the level itself is anything to be too concerned about, unless it was really low.

We know your front hub seals are good and you haven't been in any water.
I would do as recommended and check the breather tube. Pull the banjo fitting and clean it thoroughly. Stick a paperclip in the hole and blow compressed air through it. With the bolt off the line, blow compressed air through the line too.
After that's done just dump 1.8 quarts gear oil in the diff and throw some Teflon tape on the plugs and call it good.

You can extensd the breathers with fridge line. I used a $2 fitting from home depot for mine.

 

I have changed the oil since the lift and that was the first oil change that I had done on it since getting it from the previous owner.

When I changed the oil this time, it was pretty much in the same position on the driveway as it is right now, which is why I was surprised that it was overfilled so much. Also, the oil this time was grey... Almost like when engine oil mixes with coolant. The first time I did it, the oil was pretty black and nasty... But who knows when the PO changed the oil...? If ever?

The oil in the rear diff (You probably don't want to read this Jake) was a nice caramel color and the level was about where it should have been despite having a small leak from the output seal.

 

With the moisture not being able to escape it will collect in the diff and raise the gear oil level because water is heavier than oil it settles on the bottom and the oil rises to the top.
If you let it sit for a week or more without moving you could remove the drain plug and nothing but clear water would come out first because the oil and water would separate.
I have gotten into the habit of removing my axle breathers every spring and using a small drill bit ream them out to clear out any rust, then stick the straw from a can of carb cleaner into the banjo and blow it clean, air dry and re-install.
When I first got my truck the rear diff was leaking at the pinion seal, changed gear oil and milky oil came out.
Replaced the axle breather and problem was solved.
On the DII the axle breathers are plastic so they wont rust, I have thought about switching over to them, but I dont like the idea of plastic.

 

One other thought - the word "grey" made me think of this. Are you running the "one shot" grease in your swivel housings? If the seal(s) that separates the swivel lube and the gear oil begin leak or go bad, the two mix. Honey colored gear oil and the "one shot" come out grey when mixed.

Definitely look at the breathers as everyone has suggested (and everyone who owns one of these should do this!!!) They clog pretty easily. Did mine this year and they were a mess.